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DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
THE INDIAN WAR OF 1551.
WHICH LED TO THAT EVENT,
BY
LAFAYETTE HOUGHTON BUNNELL, M. D ,
OF THE MARIPOSA BATTALION, ONE OF THE DISCOVERERS,
LATE SURGEON THIRTY -SIXTH REGIMENT
^VISCONSIN VOLUNTEERS.
THIRD EDITION— REVISED AND CORRECTED.
, _ ,,^, ., -j^
Fleming h. Revell Company,
NEW YORK: , CHICAGO :
30 Union Square: East. | 148 and 150 Madison St
6 F»^ ^
Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1880-1892, by
L. H. BUNNELL,
In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
DEDICATION.
TO THE
HOIST. CHARLES H. BEREY,
THIS BOOK, IN REMEMBRANCE OF KINDLY SUGGESTIONa,
IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.
. LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS.
PAGft
I. Maps, Frontispiece.
II. Portrait,
III. The Yosemite Valley, 13
IV. El Capitan, 54
V. Bridal Veil Fall, 69
VI. Half Dome, 74
VII. North Dome and Royal Arches, .... 75
VI II. Cathedral Rocks, 77
IX. Glacier Fall, 84
X. Vernal Fall and Round Rainbow, .... 86
XI. Nevada Fall, 87
XII. Caches, or Acorn Storehouses, 129
XIII. Three Brothers, 146
XIV. Yosemite Fall, 166
XV. Mirror Lake, 204
XVI. Sentinel Rock, 213
XVII. The Indian Belle, 219
XVIII. Lake Ten-ie-ya, 236
XIX. Lake Starr King, 290
XX. Big Tree, 333
XX: Riding through a Tree Trunk, ... 325
Fire Stick, 184
Tunneled Tree •...,... 340
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I.
Incidents leading to the Discovery of the Yosemite Valley — Major Savage and Savages — Whiskey, Wrangling and War — Skinned Alive — A brisk Fight — Repulse — Another Fight, and Conflagration, ... 1
CHAPTER II.
The Governor of California issues a Proclamation— Formation of the Ma- riposa Battalion— The Origin and Cause of the War— New Material Public Documents— A Discussion— Capt. Walker— The Peace Com- missioners' Parley and the Indians' Pow-wow— The Mysterious Deep Valley— Fonvard, March! 29
CHAPTER III.
March Down the South Fork — Capture of an Indian Village — Hungry Men — An able Surgeon — Snow Storms — Visit of Ten-ie-ya, Chief of the Yo- semites — Commander's Dilemma — Unique Manner of Extrication — Ap proaching the Valley — First View — Sensations Experienced — A Lofty Flight Brought Down, 40
CHAPTER lY.
Naming the- Valley — Signification and Origin of the Word — Its proper Pro- nunciation : Yo-sem-i-ty — Mr. Hutchings and Yo Ham-i te — His Resto- ration of Yo-sem-i-te, .57
CHAPTER Y.
Date of Discovery — First White Visitors — Captain Joe Walker's Statement Ten-ie-ya' 3 Cunning — Indian Tradition — A Lying Guide — The Ancient Squaw — Destroying Indian Stores — Sweat-houses — The Mourner's Toi- let— Sentiment and Reality — Return to Head-quarters, . . 70
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER YI.
Out of Provisions — A Hurried Move — Mills where Indians take their Grists, and Pots in which they Boil their Food — Advance Movement of Captain Dill — A Hungry Squad — Enjoyment — Neglect of Duty — Escape of Indians — Following their Trail — A Sorrowful Captain — A Mystery made Clear — Duplicity of the Chow-chillas — Vow-chester's Good- will Offering — Return of the Fugitives — Major Savage as Agent and Inter- preter, 92
CHAPTEE YII.
Campaign against the Chow-chillas — The Favorite Hunting Ground — A Deer Hunt and a Bear Chase — An Accident and an Alarm — A Torch- light Pow-wow — Indians Discovered — Captain Boling's Speech — Cross- ing of the San Joaquin — A Line of Battle, its Disappearance — Capture of Indian Village — Jose Key's Funeral-pyre — Following the Trail — A Dilemma — Sentiment and Applause — Returning to Camp — Narrow Es- cape of Captain Boling, ..... , . 105
CHAPTEE YIII.
A Camp Discussion — War or Police Clubs — Jack Regrets a Lost Opportuni- ty— Boling's Soothing Syrup — A Scribe Criticises and Apologises — In- dian War Material and its Manufacture — The Fire-stick and its Sacred Uses — Arrival at Head-quarters, 123
CHAPTEE IX.
starvation Subdues the Chow-chillas, and the Result is Peace — Captain Kuykendall's Expeditions — An Attack — Rout and Pursuit — A Wise Con- clusion— Freezing out Indians — A Wild Country — ATerrific View — Yo- semite versus King's River — Submission of the Indians South of the San Joaquin — Second Expedition to Yosemite — Daring Scouts — Capture of Indians— Naming of *♦ Three Brothers," 135
CHAPTEE X.
A General Scout — An Indian Trap — Flying Artillery — A Narrow Escape — A Tragic Scene — Fortunes of War — A Scout's Description — Recovery from a Sudden Leap — Surrounded by Enemies, . . , 148
CONTENTS,
CHAPTER XI.
Camp Amusements— A Lost Arrow — Escape of a Prisoner — Escape of An- ther— Shooting of the Third — Indian Diplomacy — Taking His Own Medicine — Ten-ie ya Captured — Grief over the Death of His Son — Ap- petite under Adverse Circumstances — Poetry Dispelled — Really a Dirty Indian, 160
CHAPTER XII.
Bears and Other Game— Sickness of Captain Boling — Convalescence and Determination — A Guess at Heights — A Tired Doctor and a Used-up Captain — Surprising an Indian — Know-nothingness, or Native American- ism— A Clue and Discovery — A Short-cut to Camp, but an Unpopular Route, 175
CHAPTER XIII.
The Indian Names — Difl&culty of their Interpretation — Circumstances Sug- gesting Names of Vernal, Nevada and Bridal Veil Falls — Mr. Richard- son's Descriptions of the Falls and Round Rainbow — Py-we-ack Mis- placed, and ''Illi/iieUe" an Absurdity — An English Name Suggested for Too-lool-lo-we-ack, Pohono and Tote-ack-ah nli-la — Indian Supersti- tions and Spiritual Views — A Free National Park Desirable — Off on the Trail, . . • 198
CHAPTER XIY.
A Mountain Storm — Delay of Supplies — Clams and Ipecac — Arrival of Train — A Cute Indian — Indian Sagacity — A Dangerous Weapon — Cap- ture of Indian Village — An Eloquent Chief — Woman's Rights versus Squaw's Wrongs — A Disturbed Family — A Magnificent Sunrise — On a Slippery Slope — Sentiment and Poetry — Arrival at the Fresno, 222
CHAPTER XY.
The Flora of the Region of the Yosemite — General Description of the Val- ley and its Principal Points of Interest, with their Heights, . 240
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XVI.
A Trip to Los Angeles— Interview with Colonel McKee— A Night at Colonel Fremont's Camp — Management of Cattle by the Colonel's Herdsmen— Back to Los Angeles— Specimen Bricks of the Angel City — An Adoiiioii to our Party — Mules versus Bears — Don Vincente —A Silver Mme -Mosquitos— A Dry Bog— Return to Fresno— Mus- ter out of Battalion— A Proposition, . . . , . 357
CHAPTER XVII.
Captain Boling elected Sheriff— Appointment of Indian Agents— Ten-ie- ya allowed to Return to Yosemite — Murder of Visitors — Lieut. Moore's Expedition and Punishment of Murderers — Gold Discoveries on Eastern Slope of Sierras — Report of Expedition, and First Pub- lished Notice of Yosemite — Squatter Sovereignty — Assault upon King's River Reservation — The supposed Leader, Harvey, Denounced by Major Savage — A Rencounter, and Death of Savage — Harvey Liberated by a Friendly Justice — An A.stute Superintendent — A Mass Meeting — A Rival Aspirant — Indians and Indian Policy, . 272
CHAPTER XVIII.
Murder of Starkey — Death of Ten-ie ya and Extinction of his Band — A few Surviving Murderers— An Attempt at Reformation— A Failure and Loss of a Mule— Murders of Robert D Sevil and Robert Smith — Alarm of the People— A False Alarm, .... 291
CHAPTER XIX.
Engineering and History— Speculation and Discouragement — A New Deal — Wall Street — A Primitive Bridge— First Woman in the Yose- mite—Lady Visitors from Mariposa and Lady Teachers from San Francisco— Measurements of Heights — First Houses and their Occu- pants—A Gay Party and a Glorious Feast. .... 301
CHAPTER XX.
Golden Theories and Glaciers 319
CHAPTER XXI.
Big Trees of California or Sequoia Gigantea— Their Discovery and Classification, 333
CHAPTER XXII.
Statistics— Roads and Accommodations — Chapel and Sunday School — Big Farms and Great Resources— A Variety of Products— Long Hoped for Results, 843
THE YO SEMITE
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INTRODUCTION.
mTEODUCTIOK
The book here presented is the result of an attempt to correct existing errors relative to the Yosemite Valley. It was originally designed to compress the matter in this volume within the limits of a magazine article, but this was soon found to be impracticable; and, at the suggestion ol Gen. C. H. Berry, of Winona, Minnesota, it was decided to ** write a book.*'
This, too, proved more difficult than at first appeared.
Bom in Rochester, New York, in 1824, and earned to Western wilds in 1833, the writer's opportunities for culture were limited; and in this, his first attempt at authorship, he has found that the experiences ol frontier life are not the best preparations for literary efi'ort. Beside this, he had mainly to rely upon his own resources, for nothing could be ob- tained in the archives of California that could aid him. It was not deemed just that California should forget the deeds of men who had subdued hei savages, and discovered her most sublime scenery. Having been a mem- ber of the "Mariposa Battalion," and with it when the Yosemite was discovered, having suggested its name, and named many of the princi- pal objects of interest in and near the valley, it seemed a duty that the writer owed his comrades and himself, to give the full history of these events. Many of the facts incident thereto have already been given to the public by the author at various times since 1851, but these have been so mutilated or blended with fiction, that a renewed and full statement of facts concerning that remarkable locality seems desirable.
10 INTRODUCTION.
While engag-ed upon this work, the writer was aided by the scientific researches of Prof. J. D. Whitney, and by the ** acute and helpful criti- cism " of Doctor James M. Cole of Winona, Minnesota.
Since the publication of the second edition of this book, and an arti- cle from the autlior's pen in the Century Magazine for September, 1890, numerous letters of approval from old comrades have been received, and a few dates obtained from old oflQcial correspondence that will now be introduced.
In addition to what may properly belong to this history, there have been introduced a few remarks concerning the habits and character of the Indians. This subject is not entirely new, but the opinions expressed are the results of many years acquaintance with various tribes, and may be useful.
The incidental remarks about game will probably interest some. To the author, the study of nature in all its aspects has been interesting.
The author's views regarding the gold deposits and glaciers of the Sierras are given simply as suggestions.
His especial eflforts have been directed to the placing on record events connected with the discovery of the Yosemite, for description of its scenery he feels to be impossible. In reverent acknowledgment of this, there are submitted as a prologue, some lines written while contemplating the grandeur of his subject.
WONDER LAND.
Hail thee, Yosemite, park of sublimity!
Majesty, peerless and old! Ye mountains and cliffs, ye valleys and rifts.
Ye cascades and cataracts bold! None, none can divine the wonders of thine,
When told of the glorious view 1
INTRODUCTION. 11
The wild world of light — from '* Beatitude's" height, Old " Rock Chief," » "El Capitan " true!
Thy head proud and high! white brow to the sky!
Thy features the thunderbolts dare! Thou o'erlookest the wall would the boldest appal
Who enter Yosemite's " Lair."' Fair '• Bridal Veil Fall! " the queen over all,
In beauty and grace intertwined! Even now irom thy height water-rockets of light
Dart away, and seem floating in wind !
And thou, high " Scho-look! " proud "Ah-wah-ne! " Invoke To receive from " Kay-o-pha" " a boon!
That flowing from pines, in the region of vines, May temper the heat of bright noon.
** Nevada" and " Vernal," emblems eternal Of winter and loveliest Spring,
No language so bold the truth can unfold- No pen can thee offerings bring !
And yet dare I say, of the cool "Vernal Spray,"
In the flash of the bright sun's power, I welcome thy " ring," * though a drenching it bring,
The smile of a god 's in the shower! And thuu, " Glacier Fall,'" ^ from thy adamant wall.
And winter-bound lakes at thy head — Thy nymphs never seen, except by the sheen
So fitful from "Mirror Lake's" bed.
Te North and South Domes, ^ '* Ten-ie-ya's" lake homes,
" Cloud's Rest," and high " Tis-sa-ack" lone; Mute " Sentinel," " Brothers," ye "Starr King," ye others —
*"Rock Chief,' a literal translation of " Tote-ack-ah-noo-la," rendered " El Cap- itan" in Spanish, from the likeness of a man's head upon the wall.
2 The Yosemites were known as the " Bear tribe." " Ten-ie-ya" was chief.
8"Scho look" is the Indian name for the 'High Fall;" "Ah wah ne," the old name of Valley, and " Kay o pha" (the sky), the name of highest or snow-clad peaks.
* At intervals at the Vernal a round rainbow is formed, perfect as a finger-ring.
6 " Glacier Fall," in place of "Too loo lo-we ack."
« "Sentinel Dome" was known to the discoverers as the "South Dome, " and " Tis sa ack." meaning cleft rock, as ihe " Half Dome."
12 INTRODUCTION,
Oh! what of the past have ye known? To you has been given the mission from heaven
To watch through the ages of earth! Your presence sublime is the chronicled time,
From the seon the world had birth!
Looking up the valley from a height of about 1,000 feet above the Merced River, and above sea level 5,000 feet, giving some faint idea of the beauty, grand- eur and magnitude of this mao:- nificent work of nature.
DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.
DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.
CHAPTER I.
Incidents leading to the discovery of the rosemite Valley — Major Savage and Savages — Whiskey, wrangling and War — Skinned Alive— A brisk Fight — Repulse — Another Fight, and Conflagration.
During the winter of 1849-50, while ascending the old Bear Yalley trail from Ridley's ferrj, on the Merced river, my attention was attracted to the stupendous rocky peaks of the Sierra Kevadas. In the distance an immense clilf loomed, apparently to the summit of the mountains. Al- though familiar with nature in her wildest moods, I looked upon this awe-inspiring column with wonder and admira- tion. While vainly endeavoring to realize its peculiar prominence and vast proportions, I turned from it with re- luctance to resume the search for coveted gold; but the im- pressions of that scene were indelibly fixed in my memory. Whenever an opportunity afforded, I made inquiries con- cerning the scenery of that locality. But few of the miners liad noticed any of its special peculiarities. On a second visit to Ridley's, not long after, that towering mountain which had so profoundly interested me was invisible, an in- tervening haze obscuring it from view. A year or more passed before the mysteries of this wonderful land were sat- isfactorily solved.
DISCOVERY OF THE YOS EMITS,
During the winter of 1850-51, 1 was attached to an expe- dition that made tlie first discovery of what is now known as the Yosemite Yallej. While entering it. 1 saw at a glance that the reality of my sublime vision at Ridley's ferry, forty miles awaj^, was before me. The locality of the mysterious cliff was there revealed — its proportions en- larged and perfected.
Tlie discovery of this remarkable region was an event in- timately connected with the history of the early settlement of that portion of California. During 1850, the Indians in Mariposa county, which at that date included all the terri- tory south of the divide of the Tuolumne and Merced riv- ers within the valley proper of the San Joaquin, became very troublesome to the miners and settlers. Their depre- dations and murderous assaults were continued until the arrival of the United States Indian commissioners, in 1851, when the general government assumed control over them. Through the management of the commissioners, treaties were made, and many of these Indians were transferred to locations reserved for their special occupancy.
It was in the early days of tlie operations of this commis- sion that the Yosemite Yalley was first entered by a com- mand virtually employed to perform the special police du- ties of capturing and bringing the Indians before these rep- resentatives of the government, in order that treaties might be made with them. These wards of the general govern- ment were provided with supplies at the expense of the ])ublic treasury: provided that they confined themselves to the reservations selected for them.
My recollections of those early days are from personal observations and information derived from the earlier set- tlers of the San Joaquin valley, with whom I was person- ally acquainted in the mining camps, and through business connections; and also from comrades in the Indian war of
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 2b
1850-51. Among these settlers was one James D. Savage. a trader, who in 1849-50 was located in the mountains near the mouth of the South Fork of the Merced river, some fifteen miles below the Yosemite valley.
At this point, engaged in gold mining, he had employed a party of native Indians. Early in the season of 1850 his trading post and mining camp were attacked by a band of the Yosemite Indians. This tribe, or band, claimed the territorj^ in that vicinity, and attempted to drive Savage off. Their real object, however, was plunder. They were con- sidered treacherous and dangerous, and were very trouble- some to the miners generally.
Savage and his Indian miners repulsed the attack and drove oif the marauders, but from this occurrence he no lonu^er deemed this 1 cation desirable. Being fully aware of tlie murderous propensities of his assailants, he removed to Mariposa Creek, not far from the junction of the Aqua Fria, and near to the site of the old stone fort. Soon after, he established a branch post on the Fresno, where the min- ing prospects became most encouraging, as the high water subsided in that stream. This branch station was placed in charge of a man by the name of Greeley.
At these establishments Savage soon built up a prosper- ous business. He exchanged his goods at enormous profits for the gold obtained from his Indian miners. The white miners and ])rospecting parties also submitted to his de- mands rather than lose time by going to Mariposa village. The value of his patrons' time was thus made a source of revenue. As the season advanced, this hardy pioneer of commerce rapidly increased his wealth, but in the midst of renewed prosperity he learned that another cloud was gathering over him. One of his five squaws assured him that a combination was maturino^ amonor the mountain Indians, to kill or drive all the wlu'te men from the coun-
3a DISCOVERY OF THE TOSEMITE,
try, and plunder them of their property. To strengthen his influence over the principal tribes, Savage had, accord- ing to the custom of many mountain men, taken wives from among them, supposing his personal safety would be some- what improved by so doing. This is the old story of the prosperous Indian trader. Rumor also came from his Indian miners, that the Yoseraites threatened to come down on him again for the purpose of plunder, and that they were urging other tribes to join them.
These reports he affected to disregard, but quietly cau- tioned the miners to guard against marauders.
He also sent word to the leading men in the settlements that hostilities were threatened, and advised preparations against a surprise.
At his trading posts he treated the rumors with indiffer- ence, but instructed the men in his employ to be continu- ally on their guard in his absence. Stating that he was go- ing to " the Bay^'' for a stock of goods, he started for San Francisco, taking with him two Indian wives, and a chief of some note and influence who professed great friendship.
This Indian, Jose Juarez, was in reality one of the lead- ing spirits in arousing hostilities against the whites.
Notwithstanding Juarez appeared to show regard for Sav- age, the trader had doubts of his sincerity, but, as he had no fears of personal injury, he carefully kept his suspicions to himself. The real object Savage had in making this trip was to place in a safe locality a large amount of gold which he had on hand; and he took the chief to impress him with the futility of any attempted outbreak by his people. He hoped that a visit to Stockton and San Francisco, where Jose could see the numbers and superiority of the whites, would so impress him that on his return to the mountains his report would deter the Indians from their proposed hos- tilities.
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.
The trip was made without any incidents of importance, but, to Savage's disappointment and regret, Jose developed an instinctive love for whiskey, and having been liberally supplied with gold, he invested heavily in that favorite In- dian beverage, and was stupidly drunk nearly all the time he vvas in the city.
Becoming disgusted with Jose's frequent intoxication. Savage expressed in emphatic terms his disapprobation of such a course. Jose at once became greatly excited, and forgetting his usual reserve, retorted in abusive epithets, and disclosed his secret of the intended war against the whites.
Savage also lost his self-control, and with a blow felled the drunken Indian to the ground. Jose arose apparently sober, and from that time maintained a silent and dignified demeanor. After witnessing the celebration of the admis- sion of the State into the Union — which by appointment occurred on October 29th, 1850, though the act of admis- sion passed Congress on the 9th of September of that year — and making arrangements to have goods forwarded as he should order them. Savage started back with his dusky re- tainers for Mariposa. On his arrival at Quartzberg, he learned that the Kah-we-ah Indians were exacting tribute from the immigrants passing through their territory, and soon after his return a man by the name of Moore was killed not far from his Mariposa Station. From the information here received, and reported murders of emi- grants, he scented danger to himself. Learning that the Indians were too numerous at " Cassady's Bar," on the San- Joaquin, and in the vicinity of his Fresno Station, he at once, with characteristic promptness and courage, took his course direct to that post. He found, on arriving there, that all was quiet, although some Indians were about, as if for trading purposes. Among them were Pon-wat-chee 2
DISCOVERY OF THE Y OS E MITE,
and Yow-ches-ter, two Indian chiefs known to be friendly. The trader had taken two of his wives from their tribes.
Savage greeted all with his customary salutation. Leav- ing his squaws to confer with their friends and to provide for their own accommodations, he quietly examined the memoranda of his agent, and the supply of goods on hand. With an appearance of great indifference, he listened to the business reports and gossip of Greeley, who informed him that Indians from different tribes had come in but had brought but little gold. To assure himself of the progress made by the Indians in forming a union among themselves, he called those present around him in front of his store, and passed the friendly pipe. After the usual silence and delay. Savage said: "I know that all about me are my friends, and as a friend to all, I wish to have a talk with you before I go back to my home on the Mariposa, from which I have been a long distance away, but where I could not stop until I had warned you.
" I know that some of the Indians do not wish to be friends with the white men, and that they are trying to unite the different tribes for the purpose of a war. It is better for the Indians and white men to be friends. If the Ind- ians make war on the white men, every tribe will be exter- minated; not one will be left. I have just been where the white men are more numerous than the wasps and ants; and if war is made and the Americans are aroused to anger, every Indian engaged in the war will be killed before the whites will be satisfied." In a firm and impressive manner Savage laid before them the damaging effects of a war, and the advantages to all of a continued peaceful intercourse. His knowledge of Indian language was sufficient to make his remarks clearly understood, and they were apparently well received.
Not supposing that Jose would attempt there to advocate
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.
any of his schemes, the trader remarked, as he finished his speech: "A chief who has returned with me from the place wliere the white men are so numerous, can tell that what I have said is true — Jose Juarez — jou all know, and will be- lieve him when he tells you the white men are more pow- erful than the Indians."
The cunning chief with much dignity, deliberately stepped forward, with more assurance than he had sliown since the belli Querent occurrence at the bay, and spoke with more en- ergy than Savage had anticipated. He commenced by saying: "Our brother has told his Indian relatives much that is truth; we have seen many people; the white men are very numer- ous; but the white men we saw on our visit are of many tribes; they are not like the tribe that dig gold in the moun- tains." He then gave an absurd description of what he had seen while below, and said: "Those white tribes will not come to the mountains. They will not help the gold dig- gers if the Indians make war against them. If the gold diggers go to the white tribes in the big village they give their gold for strong water and games; when they have no more gold the white tribes drive the gold-diggers back to the mountains with clubs. They strike them down (refer- ring to the police), as your white relative struck me while I was with him." (His vindictive glance assured Savage that the blow was not forgotten or forgiven.) " The white tribes will not go to war with the Indians in the mountains. They cannot bring their big ships and big guns to us; we have no cause to fear them. They will not injure us."
To Savage's extreme surprise, he then boldly advocated an immediate war upon the whites, assuring his listeners that, as all the territory belonged to the Indians, if the tribes would unite the whole tribe of gold-diggers could be easily driven from their country ; but, if the gold-diggers should stay longer, their numbers will be too great to make
5a DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
war upon, and the Indians would finally be destroyed. In liis speech Jose evinced a keenness of observation inconsist- ant with his apparent drunken stupidity. Savage had thought this stupidity sometimes assumed. He now felt assured that the chief had expected thereby to learn his plans. To the writer there seems to be nothing inconsist- ent with Indian craft, keenness of observation and love of revenge in Jose's conduct, though he was frequently drunk while at "the bay." While Jose was speaking other In- dians had joined the circle around him. Their expressions of approval indicated the effects of his speech. During this time Savage liad been seated on a log in front of the store, a quiet listener. When Jose concluded, the trader arose, and stepping forward, calmly addressed the relatives of his wives and the Indians in whom he still felt confidence. The earnest and positive speech of the cunning cliief had greatly surprised him ; he was somewhat discouraged at the approval with which it had been received; but with great self-possession, he replied, "I have listened very attentively to what the chief, who went with me as my friend, has been saying to you. I have heard all he has said. He has told you of many things that he saw. He has told you some truth. He has told of many things which he knows noth- ing about. He has told you of things he saw in his dreams, while "strong water " made him sleep. The white men we saw there are all of the same tribe as the gold-diggers here among the mountains. He has told you he saw white men that were pale, and had tall hats on their heads, with cloth- ing different from the gold-diggers. This was truth, but they are all brothers, all of one tribe. All can wear the clothing of the gold-diggers; all can climb the mountains, and if war is made on the gold-diggers, the white men will come and fight against the Indians. Their numbers will be so great, that every tribe will be destroyed that joins in a war against them."
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.
Jose observing the effects of tliese statements, excitedly interrupted Savage by entering the circle, exclaiming: " He is telling you words that are not true. His tongue is forked and crooked. He is telling lies to his Indian relatives. This trader is not a friend to the Indians. He is not our brother. He will help the white gold-diggers to drive the Indians from their country. We can now driv^e them from among us, and if the other white tribes should come to their help, we will go to the mountains; if they follow after us, they cannot find us; none of them will come back; we will kill them with arrows and with rocks." While Jose was thus vociferously haranguing, other Indians came into the grounds, and the crisis was approaching. As Jose Juarez ended his speech, Jose Rey, another influential chief and prominent leader, walked proudly into the now enlarged circle, followed by his suite of treacherous Chow-chillas, among whom were Tom-Kit and Frederico. He keenly glanced about him, and assuming a grandly tragic style, at once commenced a speech by saying: " My people are now^ ready to begin a war against the white gold-diggers. If all the tribes will be as one tribe, and join with us, we will drive all the white men from our mountains. If all the tribes will go together, the white men will run from us, and leave their property behind them. The tribes who join in with my people will be the first to secure the property of the gold-diggers."
The dignity and eloquent style of Jose Key controlled the attention of the Indians. This appeal to their cupidity in- terested them; a common desire for plunder would be the strongest inducement to unite against the whites.
Savage was now fully aware that he had been defeated at this impromptu council he had himself organized, and at once withdrew to prepare for the hostilities he was sure would soon follow. As soon as the Indians dispersed, he
DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
started with his squaws for home, and again gave the settlers warning of what was threatened and would soon be at- tempted.
These occurrences were narrated to me bj Savage. The incidents of the council at the Fresno Station were given during the familiar conversations of our intimate acquaint- anceship. The Indian speeches here quoted are like all others of their kind, really but poor imitations. The Indian is very figurative in his language. If a literal translation were attempted his speeches would seem so disjointed and inverted in their methods of expression, that their signifi- cation could scarcely be understood; hence only the sub- stance is here given.
The reports from Savage were considered by the miners and settlers as absurd. It was generally known that moun- tain men of Savage's class were inclined to adoj)t tlie vaga- ries and superstitions of the Indians with whom they were associated; and therefore but little attention was given to the trader's warnings. It was believed that he had listened to the blatant palaver of a few vagabond " Digger Indians," and that the threatened hostilities were only a quarrel be- tween Savage and his Indian miners, or with some of his Indian associates. Cassady, a rival trader, especially scofied at the idea of danger, and took no precautions to guard him- self or establishment. The settlers of Indian Gulch and Quartzberg were, however, soon after startled by a report brought by one of Savage's men called "Long-haired Brown," that the traders' store on the Fresno had been robbed, and all connected with it killed except himself. Brown had been warned by an Indian he had favored, known as Polonio-Arosa, but notwithstanding this aid, he had to take the chances of a vigorous pursuit.
Brown was a large man of great strength and activity, and as he said, had dodged their arrows and distanced his
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 66
pursuers in the race. Close upon the lieels of this report, came a rumor from the miners' camp on Mariposa creek, that Savage's establishment at that place had also been plun- dered and burned, and all connected with it killed. This report was soon after corrected bj the appearance of the trader at Quartzberg. Savage was highly offended at the in- difference with which his cautions had been received at Mari- posa, and bj the county authorities, then located at Agua-Fria. He stated that his wives had assured him that a raid was about to be made on his establishment, and warned him of the danger of a surprise. He had at once sought aid from personal friends at Horse Slioe Bend — where he had once traded — to remove or protect his property. While he was absent, Greeley, Stiifner and Kennedy had been killed, his property plundered and burned, and his wives carried oif by their own people. These squaws had been importuned to leave the trader, but had been faitliful to his interests. The excitement of these occurrences had not subsided be- fore news came of the murder of Cassady and four men near the San Joaquin. Another murderous assault was soon after reported by an immigrant who arrived at Cassady's Bar, on the upper crossing of the San Joaquin. His shat- tered arm and panting horse excited the sympathies of the settlers, and aroused the whole community. The wounded man was provided for, and a party at once started for the '' Four Creeks," where he had left his comrades lighting the Indians.
The arm of the wounded man was amputated by Dr. Lew- is Leach, of St. Louis, Mo., an immigrant who had but just come in over the same route. The name of the wounded man was Frank W. Boden. Lie stated that his party — four men, I believe, besides himself — had halted at the " Four Creeks" to rest and graze their horses, and while there a band of Indians (Ka-we-ahs) came down from their villagf^
la DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
and demanded tribute for crossing their territory. Looking upon the demand as a new form of Indian beggary, but lit- tle attention was paid to them. After considerable banter- ing talk, some tobacco was given them, and they went off grumbling and threatening. Boden said: "After the In- dians left we talked over the matter for a while; none re- garded the demand of the ' Indian tax-gathers' but as a triv- ial affair. I then mounted my horse and rode off in the di- rection in which we had seen some antelopes as we came on. I had not gone far before I heard tiring in the direction of our halting-pLace.
" Riding back, I saw the house near which I had left my comrades was surrounded by yelling demons. I was dis- covered by them at the same instant, and some of them dashed toward me. Seeing no possibility of joining my party, I turned and struck my horse with the spurs, but be- fore I could get beyond range of their arrows, I felt a be- numbing sensation in my arm, which dropped powerless. Seeing that my arm was shattered or broken, I thought I would give them one shot at least before I fell into their hands. Checking my horse with some difficulty, I turned so as to rest my rifle across my broken arm, and took sight on the nearest of my pursuers, who halted at the same time."
At this point in his story the hardy adventurer remarked with a twinkle of satisfaction in his bright, keen eye: "I never took better aim in my life. That Indian died sud- denly. Another dash was made for me. My horse did not now need the spurs, he seemed to be aware that we must leave that locality as soon as possible, and speedily distanc- ed them all. As soon as the first excitement was over I suffered excrutiating pain in my arm. My rifle being use- less to me, I broke it against a tree and threw it away. I then took the bridle rein in my teeth and carried the broken arm in my other hand."
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.
The party that went out to the place of attack — Dr. Thomas Pajn's, now Yisalia, named for Nat. Vice, an ac- quaintance of the writer — found there the mangled bodies of Boden's four companions. One of these, it was shown by unmistakable evidence, had been skinned by the merci- less iiends while yet alive.
These men had doubtless made a stout resistance. Like brave men they had fought for their lives, and caused, no doubt, a heavy loss to their assailants. This, with their re- fusal to comply with the demand for tribute, was the motive for such wolfish barbarity.
It now became necessary that some prompt action should be taken for general protection. Rumors of other depreda- dations and murders alarmed the inhabitants of Mariposa county. Authentic statements of these events were at once forwarded to Governor John McDougall, by the sheriff and other ofldcials, and citizens, urging the immediate adop- tion of some measures on the part of the State for the de- fense of the people. Raids upon the miners' camps and the " Ranch" of the settlers had become so frequent that on its being rumored that the Indians were concentrating for more extensive operations, a party, without waiting for any official authority, collected and started out to check the rav- ages of the marauders that were found gathering among the foothills. With but limited supplies, and almost with- out organization, this party made a rapid and toilsome march among the densely wooded mountains in pursuit of the savages, who, upon report of our movements, were now retreating. This party came up with the Indians at a point high up on the Fresno. In the skirmish which followed a Lt. Skeane was killed, William Little was seriously wounded and some others slightly injured.
This engagement, which occurred on January 11th, 1851, was not a very satisfactory one to the whites. The necessity of a more efficient organization was shown.
DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
The Indians had here taken all the advantages of position and successfully repulsed the attack of the whites, who withdrew, and allowed the former to continue their course.
Some of the party returned to the settlements for sup- plies and reinforcements, taking with them the wounded.
Those who remained, reorganized, and leisurely followed the Indians to near the North Fork of the San Joaquin river, where they had encamped on a round rugged moun- tain covered with a dense undergrowth — oaks and digger pine. Here, protected by the shelt3ring rocks and trees, they defiantly taunted the whites with cowardice and their late defeat. They boasted of their robberies and murders, and called upon Savage to come out where he could be killed. In every possible manner they expressed their contempt. Savage — who had joined the expedition — be- came ver}^ much exasperated, and at first favored an imme- diate assault, but wiser counsels prevailed, and by Captain Boling's prudent advice, Savage kept himself in reserve, knowing that he would be an especial mark, and as Doling had said, his knowledge of the Indians and their territory could not very well be dispensed with. This course did not please all, and, as miglit have been expected, then and afterwards disparaging remarks were made.
The leaders in exciting hostilities against the whites were Jose Juarez and Jose Rey. The bands collected on this mountain were under the leade ship of Jose Rey, who was also known by his English name of " King Joseph." The tribes represented were the Chow-chilla, Cliook-chan-cie, Noot-chu, Ho-nah-chee, Po-to-en-cie, Po-ho-no-chee, Kah- we-ah and Yosemite. The number of fighting men or war- riors was estimated at about 500, while that of the whites did not exceed 100.
It was late in the day when the Indians were discovered. A general council was held, and it was decided that no at-
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1861. , Sh
tack sliould be made until their position could be studied, and the probable number to be encountered, ascertained. Captain Kuy-ken-dall, Lieutenants Doss and Chandler, and others, volunteered to make a reconnoissance before night should interfere with their purpose.
The scouting party was not noticed until on its return, when it was followed back to camp by the Indians, where during nearly the whole night their derisive shouts and menaces in broken Spanish and native American^ made in- cessant vigilance of the whole camp a necessity. A council was again called to agree on the plan to be adopted. This council of war was general; official position was disregarded except to carry out the decisions of the party or command. The scouts had discovered that this rendezvous was an old Indian village as well as stronghold.
The plan was that an attack should be undei-taken at day- light, and that an effort should be made to set fire to the village, preliminary to the general assault. This plan was strongly advocated by the more experienced ones who had seen service in Mexico and in Indian warfare.
Kuy-ken-dall, Doss and Chandler, "as brave men as ever grew," seemed to vie with each other for the leadership, and at starting Kuy-ken-dall seemed to be in command, but when the assault was made, Chandler's elan carried him ahead of all, and he thus became the leader indeed.
But thirty-six men were detached for the preliminary service. Everything being arranged tb.e attacking party started before davli2:ht. The Indians had but a little while before ceased their annoyances around the camp. The re- serve under Savage and Boling were to follow more lei- surely. Kuy-ken-dall's command reached the Indian camp without being discovered. Without the least delay the men dashed in and with brands from the camp fires, set the wigwams burning, and at the same time madly attacked
9a DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,
tlie now alarmed camp. The light combustible materials of which the wigwams were composed were soon in a bright blaze. So rapid and so sudden were the charges made, that the panic-stricken warriors at once fled from their stronghold. Jose Eey was among the first shot down. The Indians made a rally to recover their leader; Chandler observing them, shouted "Charge, boys! Charge!!" Dis- charging another voile}-, the men rushed forward.
The savages turned and fled down the mountain, answer- ing back the shout of Chandler to charge by replying, "Chargee!" "Chargee!" as they disappeared.
The w^hole camp was routed, and sought safety among the rocks and brush, and by flight.
This was an unexpected result. The whole transaction had been so quickly and recklessly done that the reserve under Boling and Savage had no opportunity to participate in the assault, and but imperfectly witnessed the scattering of the terrified warriors. Kuy-ken-dall, especially, displayed a coolness and valor entitling him to command, though out- run by Chandler in the assault. The fire from the burning village spread so rapidly down the mountain side toward our camp as to endanger its safety. While the whites were saving their camp supplies, the Indians under cover of the smoke escaped. No prisoners were taken; twenty-three were killed ; the number wounded was never known. Of the settlers, but one was really wounded, though several were scorched and bruised in the fight. None were killed. The scattering: flio^ht of the Indians made a further pursuit uncertain. The supplies were too limited for an extended chase; and as none had reached the little army from those who had returned, and time would be lost in waiting, it was decided to return to the settlements before taking any other active measures. The return was accom- plished without interruption.
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.
CHAPTER II.
The Governor of California issues a Proclamation— Formation of the Ma- riposa Battalion — The Origin and Cause of the War— New Material Public Documents— A Discussion — Capt. Walker— The Peace Com- missioners' Parley and the Indians' Powwow— The Mysterious Deep Valley— Forward, March!
The State authorities had in the meantime become aroused. The reports of Indian depredations multiplied, and a general uprising was for a time threatened.
Proclamations were therefore issued by Gov. McDougal, calling for volunteers, to prevent further outrages and to punish the marauders. Our impromptu organization formed the nucleus of the volunteer force in Mariposa county, as a large majority of the men at once enlisted. Another bat- talion was organized for the region of Los Angelos. Our new organization, when full, numbered two hundred mount- ed men. This was accomplished in time, by Major Savage riding over to the San Joaquin, and bringing back men from Cassady's Bar.
The date from which we were regularly mustered into the service was January 24th, 1851. The volunteers provided their own horses and equipments. The camp supplies and baggage trains were furnished by the State. This military force was called into existence by the State authorities, but by act of Congress its maintenance was at the expense of the general government, under direction of Indian commis- sioners. Major Ben McCullough was offered the command of this battalion, but he declined it. This position was urged upon him with the supposition that if he accepted it the men who had once served under him would be induced
10 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
to enlist — many of the " Texan Kangers" being residents of Mariposa county.
Major McCullough was at tliat time employed as Collec- tor of " Foreign Miners' Tax," a very lucrative office. As a personal acquaintance, he stated to me that the position was not one that would bring him honor or pecuniary ad- vantages. That he bad no desire to leave a good position, except for one more profitable.
The officers, chosen by the men, recommended to and commissioned by Governor McDongall, were James D. Savage, as Major; John J. Kuy-ken-dall, John Boling, and William Dill, as Captains; M. B. Lewis, as Adjutant; John I. Scott, Eeuben T. Chandler, and Hugh W. Farrell, as First Lieutentants ; Robert E. Russell, as Sergeant Major; Dr. A. Bronson, as Surgeon, and Drs. Pfifer and Black as Assistant Surgeons. A few changes of Lieutenants and subordinate officers were afterward made.
Upon the resignation of Surgeon Bronson, Dr. Lewis Leach, was appointed to fill the vacancy.
While writing up these recollections, in order to verify my dates, which I knew were not always chronologically ex- act, 1 addressed letters to the State departments of California making inquiries relative to the "Mariposa Battalion," organized in 1851. In answer to my inquiry concerning these known facts, the following was received from Adj. General L. H. Foot. He says: ''The records of this of- fice, both written and printed, are so incomplete, that I am not aware from consulting them that the organization to which you allude had existence." It is a matter of regret that the history of the early settlement of California is, to so great an extent, traditionary, without public records of many important events. It is not deemed just that the faithful services of the " Mariposa Battalion," should be forgotten with the fading memory of the pioneers of that
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 106
period. There is in the State, an almost entire absence of any public record of the "Indian war," of which the dis- covery of the Yoseraite valley was an important episode.
Until the publication of Mr. J. M. Hutching's book, "In The Heart of The Sierras, Yo-Semite, Big Trees,etc.," which contains valuable public documents, the author of "Dis- covery of The Yosemite" was, as stated on page 30, un- able to obtain any official records concerning the operations of the Mariposa battalion, or of the events which preceded and caused the Indian War of 1851. Now that Mr. Hutching's persistent industry has brought light from dark- ness, I interrupt my narrative to make clear the origin of the war, and to justify the early Pioneers engaged in it. As a sample, also, of many obstructions encountered, I in- sert a few extracts from letters relating to the "Date of Discovery, "furnished the Century Magazine.
The attack made upon Savage on tlie Merced river in 1850, had for its object plunder and intimidation, and as an invasion of Ten-ie-ya's territory was no longer threatened after the removal of Mr. Savage to the Mariposa, the Yo Semities contented themselves with the theft of horses and clothing, but a general war was still impending, as may be seen by reference to page 31 of ''In The Heart of The Sierras," where appears : Report of Col. Adam John- ston, a special agent, to Gov. Peter H. Burnett, upon his return from Mariposa county to San Jose, then the (capital of California, and which I here present: San Jose, Janu- ary 2, 1851. Sir: 1 have the honor to submit to you, as the executive of the State of California, some facts con- nected with the recent depredations committed by the Indians, within the bounds of the State, upon the persons and property of her citizens. The immediate scene of their hostile movements are at and in the vicinity of the Mariposa and Fresno. The Indians in that portion of your
11a DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
State have, for some time past, exhibited disaffection and a restless feeling toward the whites. Thefts were contin- ually being perpetrated by them, but no act of hostility had been committed by them on the person of any in- dividual, which indicated general emnity on the part of the Indians, until the night of the 17th December last. I was then at the camp of Mr. James D. Savage, on the Mariposa, where I had gone for the purpose of re- conciling any difficulty that might exist between the Indi- ans and the whites in that vicinity. From various conver- sations which I had held with different chiefs, I concluded there was no immediate danger to be apprehended. On the evening of the 17th of December, we were, however, surprised by the sudden disappearance of the Indians. They left in a body, but no one knew why, or where they had gone. From the fact that Mr. Savage's domestic In- dians had forsaken him and gone with those of the ranch- eria, or village, he immediately suspected that something of a serious nature was in contemplation, or had already been committed by them.
The manner of their leaving, in the night, and by stealth, induced Mr. Savage to believe that whatever act they had committed or intended to commit, might be connected with himself. Believing that he could overhaul his Indians before others could join them, and defeat any contemplated depredations on their part, he, with sixteen men, started in pursuit. He continued upon their traces for about thirty miles, when he came upon their encampment. The Indians had discovered his approach, and fled to an adja- cent mountain, leaving behind them two small boysasleep^ and the remains of an aged female, who had died, no doubt from fatigue. Near to the encampment Mr. Savage ascended a mountain in pursuit of the Indians, from which he discovered them upon another mountain at a distance.
AND INDIAN WAR OF 185L H
From these two mountain tops, conversation was com- menced and kept up for some time between Mr. Savage and the chief, who told him that they had murdered the men on the Fresno, and robbed the camp. The chief had formerly been on the most friendly terms with Savage, but would not now permit him to approach him. Savage said to them it would be better for them to return to their vil- lage— that with very little labor daily, they could procure sufficient gold to purchase them clothing and food. To this the chief replied it was a hard way to get a living, and that they could more easily supply their wants by stealing from the whites. He also said to Savage he must not deceive the whites by telling them lies, he must not tell them that the Indians were friendly; they were not, but on the contrary were their deadly enemies, and that they intended killing and plundering them so long as a white face was seen in the country. Finding all efforts to induce them to return, or to otherwise reach them, had failed, Mr. Savage and his company concluded to return. When about leaving, they discovered a body of Indians, numbering about two hundred, on a distant mountain, who seemed to be approaching those with whom he had been talking.
Mr. Savage and company arrived at his camp in the night of Thursday in safety. In the mean time, as news had reached us of murders committed on the Fresno, we had determined to proceed to the Fresno, where the men had been murdered. Accordingly on the day fol- lowing, Friday, the 20th, I left the Mariposa camp with thirty-five men, for the camp on the Fresno, to see the situation of things there, and to bury the dead. I also dispatched couriers to Agua Fria, Mariposa, and several other mining sections, hoping to concentrate a sufficient force on the Fresno to pursue the Indians into the mouB-
12 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
tains. Several small companies of men left their respec- tive places of residence to join us, but being unacquainted with the country they were unable to meet us. We reached the camp on the Fresno a short time after day- light. It presented a horrid scene of savage cruelty. The Indians had destroyed everything they could not use or carry with them. The store was strip|)ed of blankets, clothing, flour, and everything of value; the safe was broken open and rifled of its contents; the cattle, horses and mules had been run into the mountains; the murdered men had been stripped of their clothing, and lay before us filled with arrows; one of them had yet twenty perfect arrows sticking in him. A grave was prepared, and the unfortunate persons interred. Our force being small, we thought it not prudent to pursue the Indians farther into the mountains, and determined to return. The Indians in that part of the country are quite numerous, and have been uniting other tribes with them for some time. On reach- ing our camp on the Mariposa, we learned that most of the Indians in the valley had left their villages and taken their women and children to the mountains. This is generally looked upon as a sure indication of their hostile intentions. It is feared that many of the miners in the more remote regions have already been cut off, and Agua Fria and Mariposa are hourly threatened.
Under this state of things, I come here at the earnest solicitations of the people of that region, to ask such aid from the state government as will enable them to protect their persons and property. I submit these facts for your couBideration, and have the honor to remain,
Yours very respectfully,
Adam Johnstow.
To his excellency Peter H. Burnett.
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1861. 13
The report of Col. Johnston to Gov. Burnett had the desired result, for immediately after inauguration, his suc- cessor, Gov. McDougal, on January 13, 1851, issued a proclamation calling for one hundred volunteers, and this number by a subsequent order dated January 24:th, 1851, after receipt of Sheriff James Burney's report, bearing the same date of the governor's first call for one hundred men, was increased to "two hundred able bodied men, under officers of their own selection."
To insure a prompt suppression of hostilities, or a vig- orous prosecution of the war, on January 25th, 1851, Gov. McDougal appointed Col. J. Neely Johnson of his staff a special envoy to visit Mariposa county, and in an emergency, to call out additional forces if required, and do whatever seemed best for the interests and safety of the people endangered.
Col. Adam Johnston, before leaving for San Jose, had, as he reported, "dispatched couriers to Agua Fria, Mari- posa, and several other mining sections, hoping to concen- trate a sufficient force on the Fresno to pursue the Indians into the mountains. Several small companies of men left their respective places of residence to join us, but being unacquainted with the country they were unable to meet us."
The same apparent difficulties beset Sheriff Bnrney, as he was able to collect, but seventy-four men, but want of knowledge of the country was not the sole cause of delay. The Indians of the mountains at that time having been accustomed to the occupation for many years of despoiling the Californians, were the most expert bare back riders and horse thieves in the world, and when many of us who had horses and mules herding in the valley ranches of the foot-hills and Merced bottoms, sent for them to carry us into the distant mountains of the Fresno, where we had
14 DISCOVERY OF THE YO SEMITE,
heard the Indians were concentrating, our messengers in many instances found the animals stolen or stampeded, and hence the delay in most instances, though some of the mining population who had arrived in California by water, never seemed able to guide themselves without a compass, and would get lost if they left a beaten trail. As for myself, I could scarcely become lost, except in a heavy fog or snow storm, and upon two occasions in the moun- tains was compelled to leave my comrades, who were utterly and wilfully lost, but who, finding me the most persistent, finally called to me and followed out to well known land marks.
It will appear by the letter of Major Burney that **The different squads from the various places rendezvoused not far from this place ( Agua Fria), on Monday, 6th, and num- bered but seventy- four men." 1 was at Shirlock's Creek on the night before, Jan. 5th, 1851, and had promised to join the Major in the morning; but when the morning came, my animals were gone, stolen by Indians from my Mexican herdman.
Mr. C. H. Spencer had sent his servant *'Jimmy,'' to Snel ling's ranche, on the Merced River, for his animals, and after a delay of perhaps two or three days, they were brought up for use. Mr. Spencer kindly loaned me a mule for temporary use, but upon his having his saddle mule stolen a few nights after, I gave back his mule and bought a fine one of Thos. J. Whitlock, for whom Whit- lock's Creek was named. I had previously been able to start with a small squad on the trail of Major Burney and his brave men, but met some of them returning after the fight, among whom I remember, were Wm. Little, shot through the lungs, but who finally recovered, a Mr. Smith, known as "Yankee Smith,'' sick, as he said, "from a bare-footed fool exposure in the snow," and Dr. Phifer, who had been
AND INDIAN WAU OF 1861. 15
^iven the caie of the wounded and sick men. There were several others unknown to me, or whose names I have now forgotten.
The differeat accounts I received from the men enffaered in the fight, were so conflicting, that in referring to it in previous editions, on page 25, I could only say that it "was not a very satisfactory one to the whites." I could only state the general impression received from Mr. Little's account, which was that the men had been unne- cessarily exposed to cold and danger, and that only by the dash and bravery of the officers and men engaged in the affair were they able to withdraw into a place of tem- porary safety, until joined by re-inforcements.
Indian fighting was new to most of the men engaged, and, like the soldiers on both sides at the outbreak of the Rebellion, they had been led to expect a too easy victory.
But we have now the report of Major Burney to Gov. McDougal, and also a letter from Mr. Theodore G. Palmer, of Newark, IS'ew Jersey, to his father, written &\e days after the battle, and which has been kindlv placed at my disposal. Military men will readily per- ceive and enjoy the entire artlessness and intended truth- fulness of Mr. Palmer's letter, as well as his modest bravery. The two letters read in connection with that of Col. Adam Johnston, are most valuable in fixing dates and locations for any one with a knowledge of the top- ography of the country, and of the events they nariate. They set at rest forever the absurd claim that the first battle of the Indian War of 1851 was fouirht in the Yosemite valley, for the battle was fought on a mountain. Mr. Ilutchings, to whose industry so much is due, has strangely overlooked the fact, that the refer- ence to '^Monday 6th," in Major Burney'g letter, could
16 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
only have reference to Monday, January 6th, 1851, the month in which the letter was written, and not to De- cember, 1850, as given by Mr, Hutchings, in brackets. The 6th of December, 1850. occurred on a Friday; on Tuesday, December 17, 1850, the three men were killed on the Fresno river station of James D. Savage; on Friday, De- cember 20th, 1850, they were buried; on Monday, January 6th, 1851, Major Burney, sheriff of Mariposa County, assembled sl strong posse to go in pursuit of the Indian murderers, and coming up with them on a mountain stronghold on Jan. 11th, 1851, destroyed their villages, and then retreated down the mountain some four miles to a plain in the Fresno valley, where he erected a log breastwork for temporary defense. Nothing but the most vivid imagination, coupled with an entire ignorance of the region of the Yosemite, could liken the two localities to each other. The Hetch Hetchy valley of the Tuolumne river and some of the cliffs of the Tuolumne and of the King's river, bear a general resemblance to some of the scenery of the Yosemite, but when the Yosemite valley itself has been seen, it will never be forgotten by the visitor.
Major Burney's Letter to Gov. McDougal.
Agfa Fria, January 13, 1851. Sir: Your Excellency has doubtlessly been informed by Mr. Johnston and others, of repeated and aggravated depredations of the Indians in this part of the State. Their more recent outrages you are probably not aware of. Since the departure of Mr. Johnston, the Indian agent, they have killed a portion of the citizens on the head of the San Joaquin river, driven the balance off, taken away all movable property, and destroyed all they could not take away. They have invariably murdered and robbed all the small parties they fell in with between here
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 17
and the San Joaquin. News came here last night that seventy-two men were killed on Rattlesnake Creek; several men have been killed in Bear Yallej. The Fine Gold Gnlch has been deserted, and the men came in here yes- terday. Nearly all the mules and horses in this part of the State have been stolen, both from the mines and the ranches. And I now, in the name of the people of this part of the State, and for the good of our country, appeal to your Excellency for assistance.
In order to show your Excellency that the people have done all that they can do to suppre&s these things, to secure quiet and safety in the possession of our property and lives, I will make a brief statement of what has been done here.
After the massacres on the Fresno, San Joaquin, etc., we endeavored to raise a volunteer company to drive the Indians back, if not to take them or force them into measures. The diffei-ent squads from the various places rendezvoused not far from this place on Monday, 6th, and numbered but seventy-four men. A company was formed, and I was elected captain; J. W. Riley, first lieutenant; E. Skeane, second lieutenant. We had but eight day's provisions, and not enough animals to pack our provisions and blankets, as it should have been done. We, however, marched, and on the following day struck a large trail of horses that had been stolen by the Indians. 1 sent for- ward James D. Savage with a small spy force, and I fol- lowed the trail witli my company. About two o'clock in the morning, Savage came in and reported the village near, as he had heard the Indians singing. Here I halted, left a small guard with my animals, and went forward with the balance of my men. We reached the village just before day, and at dawn, but before there was light enough to see how to fire our rifles with accuracy, we were discovered by
18 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
their sentinel. When I saw that he had seen us, I ordered a charge on the village (this had been reconnoitered by Savage and myself). The Indian sentinel and my com- pany got to the village at the same time, he yelling to give the alarm. I ordered them to surrender, some of them ran off, some seemed disposed to surrender, but others fired on us; we fired and charged into the village. Their ground had been selected on account of the advan- tages it possessed in their mode of warfare. They num- bered about four hundred, and fought us three hours and a half.
We killed from forty to fifty, but cannot exactly tell how many, as they took off all they could get to. Twenty- six were killed in and around the village, and a number of others in the chaparrel. We burned the village and pro- visions, and took four horses. Our loss was six wounded, two mortally; one of the latter was Lieutenant Skeane, the other a Mr. Little, whose bravery and conduct through the battle cannot be spoken of too highly. We made lit- ters, on which we conveyed our wounded, and had to march four miles down the mountain, to a suitable place to camp, the Indians firing at us all the way, from peaks on either side, but so far off as to do little damage. My men had been marching or fighting from the morning of the day before, without sleep, and with but little to eat. On the plain, at the foot of the mountain, we made a rude, but substantial fortification ; and at a late hour those who were not on guard, were permitted to sleep. Our sentinels were (as I anticipated they would be) firing at the Indians occasionally all night, but I had ordered them not to come in until they were driven in.
I left my wounded men there, with enough of my com- pany to defend the little fort, and returned to this place for provisions and recruits. 1 send them to-day re-inforce-
AND IXDIAN WAR OF 1851. 19
meats and provisions, and in two days more I march by another route, with another re-inforcement, and intend to attack another village before going to the fort. The Indi- ans are watching the movements at the fort, and I can come up in the rear of them unsuspectedly, and we can keep them back until I can hear from Your Excellency,
If Your Excellency thinks proper to authorize me or any other person to keep this company together, we can force them into measures in a short time. But if not authorized and commissioned to do so, and furnished with some arms and provisions, or the means to buy them, and pay for the services of the men, my company must be disbanded, as they are not able to lose so much time without any compensation.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
James Burnet.
In a subsequent letter of Major Bnrney, addressed to Hon. W. J. Howard, occurs the following passage:
"The firFt night out you came into my camp and re- ported that the Indians had stolen all your horses and mules — a very large number; that you had followed their trail into the hill country, but, deeming it imprudent to go there alone, had turned northward, hoping to strike my trail, having heard that I had gone out after Indians. I immediately, at sunset, sent ten men (yourself among the number) under Lieutenant Skeane — who was killed in the fight next day — to look out for the trail, and report, which w^as very promptly carried out."
Page 35, "In Heart of S. and Legislative Journal" for 1851, page 600.
It is only required of me to say here that re-inforced by such leaders of men as Kuykendall, Boling, Chand- ler and Doss, there was no delay, and the campaign waa
20 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
completed at "Battle Mountain," a water shed of the San Joaquin.
I now introduce a letter of great value, to ne, as it fixes the date of the first battle, and disproves assertions made in the Century Magazine:
Hart's Ranch, Califoenia, January 16th, 1851.
My Dear Father : When I wrote my last letter to you I had fully determined to take a Ranch near Pacheco's Pass, as I in- formed you, but before three days had passed the report of Jim Kennedy's murder on the Fresno was confirmed, and I started for the mountains in pursuit of the Indians who were commit- ting depredations all through the country and had sworn to kill every white man in it. Four hundred men had promised to go, but at the appointed time only seventy- seven made their appear- ance. With these we started under the command of Major Burney, Sheriff of Mariposa County, guided by Mr. Jas. D. Savage, who is without doubt the best man in the world for hunting them out.
From his long acquaintance with the Indians, Mr. Savage has learned their ways so thoroughly that they cannot deceive him. He has been one of their greatest chiefs, and speaks their lan- guage as well as they can themselves. No dog can follow a trail like he can. No horse endure half so much. He sleeps but little, can go days without food, and can run a hundred. miles in a day and night over the mountains and then sit and laugh for hours over a camp-fire as fresh and lively as if he had just been taking a httle walk for exercise.
With him for a guide we felt little fear of not being able to find them.
On Friday morning about ten o'clock, our camp again moved forward and kept traveling until one that night, when ''haltl we are on the Indians," passed in a whisper down the line. Every heart beat quicker as we silently unsaddled our animals and tied them to the bushes around us, Commands were given in whispers and we were formed in a line. Sixty were chosen for the expedition, the balance remaining behind in charge of camp.
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 21
Savage said the Indians were about six miles off; that they were engaged in a feast. He pointed out their fires, could hear them sing and could smell them, but his eyes were the only ones that could see ; his ears alone could hear, and his nose smell anything unusual. Still, there was such confidence placed in him that not one doubted for an instant that everything was as he said.
About two o'clock we started in Indian file, as still as it was possible for sixty men to move in the dark, for the moon had set. For three long hours did we walk slowly and cautiously over the rocks and bushes, through the deepest ravines and up steep and ragged mountain, until within a half mile of the enemy.
Here every one took off his boots, when we again pushed for- ward to about two hundred yards from the camp. Another halt was called to wait for daylight, while Savage went forward to reconnoitre. He succeeded in getting within ten paces of the Kancharia, and listened to a conversation among them in which his name was frequently mentioned. He found that it was a town of the Kee chees, but that there weie about one hundred and fifty of the Chow-cbil la warriors with them and several of the Chuc chan-ces. Had be found only the Kee chees as he ex- pected, we were to surround the Rancharia and take all prison- ers, but the presence of so many Chow-chil-las, the most warlike tribe in California, made a change of plan necessary.
Daylight by this time began to appear. We had been lying in our stocking-feet on the ground on the top of a mountain within a few paces of the snow for more than an hour, almost frozen by the intense cold, not daring to move or speak a word.
It was not yet light enough to see the sight of our rifles, when an Indian's head was seen rising on the hill before us For a mo- ment his eyes wandered, then rested on us, and with a yell like a Coyote he turned for the Rancharia. Never did I hear be- fore such an infernal howling, whooping and yelling, as saluted us then from the throats of about six hundred savages, as they rushed down the hill into the gim-o-sell bushes below.
Our huzzahs could, however, hardly have sounded more
22 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
pleasant to them, as when finding we were discovered, we charged on their town. Fifty rifles cracked almost instantane- ously; a dozen Indians lay groaning before their huts, and many supposed we had undisturbed possession. Our firing had ceased and we were looking around for plunder, when a rifle fired from the bushes below, struck a young Texan, Charley Huston, stand- ing by my side. He fell with a single groan, and we all supposed him dead. My first impression was that I was shot, for I plain- ly heard the ball strike and almost felt it. This was a surprise that almost whipped us, for not knowing that the Indians had fire-arms, we were only expecting arrows. Before that shot was fired, I had always entertained the idea that I could run about as fast as common men (and I was one of the first in the charge), but by the time I had collected my wandering senses, I was nearly alone; the majority of the party some thirty paces ahead, and running as if they never intended to stop.
Captain Burney and Mr. Savage were on top of the hill using every exertion to make the company halt and form. He had partly succeeded, when a pistol ball struck a man in the face, he fell, but raising himself up said, "if we stay here we will be all shot" and a break was made for the trees.
Still some few remained in rank and others slowly answered to the orders to form, when our Second Lieutenant fell mortally wounded. He was carried off, and every man took his tree.
The Indians had again possession of their Rancharia, and of a slight eminence to the left, and were sending showers of bul- lets and arrows upon us from three sides. These two points had to be gained even if it cost half our men. Leaving then, enough to guard our present posidon, the rest of us charged on the hill, took it, stormed the Baacharia, took and burnt it, and returned to our former position with only one man wounded, Wm, Little, shot through the lungs.
The close fighting was now over, for we could not give chase and were forced to lie behind trees and rocks and pick out such as exposed themselves. It was about half past ten when, finding it useless to remain longer, litters were made for the wounded and we started for camp. Then again we had warm work, for
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 23
all down the pass, the Indians had stationed themselves to fire on us, forcing us to charge on them several times, for while we were in plain sight, they were completely hid behind the gim-o- sell brush.
In our march back, the rear guard was kept at work about as hard as at any time during the morning, but not a single man was hurt, and only one mule was killed.
We moved our camp that night, six miles lower down, where we laid the foundations of a fort and left thirty men to guard it and take care of the wounded.
The rest of us started below the next morning, after burying Lieutenant Skeane, who died in the night.
The Indians acknowledged to eleven men killed, though fifty killed and wounded would be a moderate estimate. Our loss was seven wounded — two mortally (as we then supposed, but Mr. Little finally recovered. — Author.)
The force of the Savages consisted of, as near as could be as- certained, four hundred warriors. We burned a hundred wig- wams, several tons of dried horse and mule meat, a great number of bows and arrows, and took six mules.
Several amusing incidents occurred during the fight and others of the most heroic bravery on the part of the Indians. One old squaw was wounded accidentally at the first charge, and was unable to get off. One of our men was going to finish her with his knife, but seeing it was a woman he left her. No sooner had he gone than she picked up a bow and lodged three arrows in another man. I believe she was not touched after that.
The whole body of Indians seemed bent on killing Mr. Savage partly because he would not be their chief and lead them against the whites, and partly because he was, they knew, our greatest dependence as guide, and their particular dread. To kill him, many of them sacrificed their own lives. They would come one at a time and, standing in open ground, send arrows at him until shot down ; and one old chief who used to cook for Savage, would ask him after every shot where he had hit him. They would talk to him to find out where he was, and as soon as he
24 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
would answer, the balls and arrows would fly thick around his head: but he escaped unhurt; but as he said, worse frightened than he ever was before. He did not fancy such partiality.
A large party has started on a second expedition, but I believe I am perfectly satisfied with Indian fighting.
T. G. Palmer.
Note.— It will haye been observed that especial reference has twice been made to Gim-o-sell brush, a shrub that grows only on warm slatey soil, on Southern exposures, sought by Indians for winter quarters, and not on the granite cliffs and mountains of the Yosemite. I had not thought it necessary to draw upon nature for testimony, but a new generation has sprung into existence, and the eternal hills may speak to them.
The mining camp or village of Agua Fria, at the date of the organization of the battalion, vt^as the county seat of Mariposa County, and the residence of the Sheriff, Major James Burney. Whittier's Hotel was the head- quarters for enlistment. Finding the number called for incomplete, while yet in daily expectation of the arrival of the mustering officer, James D. Savage made a rapid ride to the San Joaquin diggings, and returned with men enough to complete the organization.
We were formally reported for duty, and went into camp about two miles below Agua Fria, on about the 10th of Feb,, 1851, but when mustered in, the rolls were dated to include service from Jan. 24th, 1851, the date of the last order of enlistment. An informal ballot was taken to show the preference of the men for officers to command us, Major Burney having previously declined, and when that had been demonstrated, other aspirants were withdrawn by their friends, a formal ballot was taken and a regular organ- ization of three companies completed. The Governor was duly notified of our proceedings, and in a few days the commissions were received by our respective officers.
After a few days in camp on Agua Fria Creek, we moved down to a camp in the foot hills, known afterwards as
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1861. 25
Lewis Ranch, were we had abundant grass and good water, and there was established our head-quarters, while waiting for Col, J. Neely Johnson and the U. S. Indian Com- migsion, as stated in this chapter.
After instructions were given us by Col. Johnson, and the Commission had exhausted its eloquence upon the "Children of the Great Father at Washington," and had started for the Fresno, we were allowed to go in pursuit of some very sly marauders who had stolen into our camp in the night, loosened and run off some of our animals, and taken some others herded in the foot hills, but no extended operations were allowed, as Major Savage ordered us to be in readiness for a campaign against the Yosemities, when the first big storm should come, that would prevent their escape across the Sierra Nevada. After a few days* delay the storm did come with continued violence, as recorded.
In view of the facts and dates here given how absurd the statement that we did not go to the Yosemite "until about the 5th or 6th of May, 1851." Our idleness in camp from Feb. 10th and the patient indulgence of the (Commis- sioners, while waiting for the results of our first opera- tions, surpass belief.
And now I reluctantly notice an error of statement by Mr. Julius N. Pratt in the Century Magazine for Decem- ber, 1890.
Had the usual courtesy been extended of allowing me to see and answer Mr. Pratt's erroneous impressions in the same number, I am convinced that he would have kindly withdrawn his article. I am led to this belief, not alone from letters received, but from the internal evulence oi an upright character conveyed by Mr. Pratt's graphic account of "A Trip to California by way of Panama in 1849," in the Century for April 1891.
The Century Magazine is a most powerful dissemina-
26 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITEy
tor of truth, or error, and though I cannot hope for a com- plete vindication through this volume, its readers shall have the facts of ''The Date of Discovery" set before them, "for a truthful regard for history" and my own self-respect re- quire it.
In the Century Magazine for September, 1890, page 795, is an article from my pen which gives the date of discovery of the Yosemite as March, 1851. Mr. Pratt, in the December number following, assumes, with ''a truthful regard for history," that I was in error, and gives about "January 10th, 1851, as the approximate, if not exact date of discovery." Many of the men whom Mr. Pratt sup- posed to have been the discoverers, were, or became, my own comrades. When Mr. Pratt's article appeared, I at once sent a reply, but it received no recognition.
Knowing that Mr. Theodore G. Palmer, of Newark, New Jersey, was in the only engagement occurring with Indians in Mariposa county at the time given by Mr. Pratt as the date of his supposed discovery of the Yosemite, I wrote, requesting Mr. Palmer to call on the editor of the Century in my behalf.
In a letter of January 9th, 1891, Mr. Palmer wrote: **It is the unexpected which always happens, and your com- munication to the Century in response to Pratt's 'Cali- fornia,' was never received. Mr. Johnson, the associate editor, received me very pleasantly. He assured me that although he sent you an advance copy of Pratt's article, nothing had been received in the office from you since in reply, and he presumed you had given up the case in default.
"I so completely satisfied him that Mr. Pratt is in error, that he requested me to express my reasons in the Century^ and to assure you that any communication from you will always have respectful attention.''
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 27
On January 24th, 1891, Mr. R. W. Johnson, associate editor, wrote rae, saying: "Since telling your friend, Mr. Palmer, that we had not received an article from you in reply to Mr. Pratt, we have discovered the manuscript. We have in type a short note from Mr. Palmer which will be acceptable to you."
A few days after Mr. Johnson kindly sent me the proof. On March 12th, 1891, Mr. Johnson wrote me: "Mr. Pratt, after examination of the subject, has written us a short letter, withdrawing his contention of your claim to the discovery of the Yosemite, the publication of which we trust will be satisfactory to you and also to Mr. Palmer. Will you now tell us whether there is anything in this new claim that Walker was the discoverer of the Valley?"
I at once saw that if Mr. Pratt's i-etraction was pub- lished there would be no need of the publication of Mr. Palmer's communication. About this time a letter of earlier date, January 28, 1891, was sent me by Mr. Palmer, received from Mr. Pratt, in which the latter gen- tleman says: "I enclose a letter which seems to prove that the party about whicli I wrote to the Century was not your party. One went to the North fork, the other (yours) to the South." That statement left no base what- ever for Mr. Pratt's imaginary "fight at the Yosemite, and thus of the discovery," for the North Fork affair was not a battle at all, but "a scare" on a fork which enters the Merced river thirty-five miles below the Yosemite, and as for the battle fought on the 11th of January, 1851, by Major Burney's company, in which Mr. Pahner was engaged, it was not fought on the South fork or in any valley, but upon a high mountain of the Fresno river.
Mr. Palmer now felt that his note to The Century was too long delayed, and wrote asking for its withdrawal or its publication. Mr. K. U. Johnson replied: '^The Cent^iry
28 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
is made up two months in advance," but that he intended inserting it in the April number, &c. Mr. Palmer added in his letter to me, **I think he will."
The matter had now become not only interesting, but amusing to me; for very soon Mr. Palmer wrote, '^whether my answer to Pratt will be published or not, is doubtful. I infer (from a letter) that Pratt will not rest quiescent under my contradiction." Again Mr. Palmer wrote, en- closing copy of letter to Mr. Johnson of March 14th, 1891, answering Mr. Johnson's Statement, "that Mr. Pratt, while being convinced of his injustice to Dr. Bunnell and being ready himself to withdraw his former statement, takes issue with you as to the identity of the two parties,'' and then Mr. Johnson asks, "would it not be just as well and more effective if we were simply to print from Mr. Pratt that he is 'pleased to withdraw all contention of the claim made by Dr. Bunnell that he was the original discov- erer?'" Let me here say, in passing, that I never made such a claim.
Mr. Palmer very properly objects to becoming the "scapegoat" for me or any one else, and replying to Mr. Johnson, says: '^Whether my letter is printed or not, is a matter of entire indifference to me, (personally) * * it was only at your desire, and to please Dr. Bunnell, that I wrote the little I did. I left you under the impression that you desired to get at the exact facts and would be glad to rectify the injustice done to the doctor by the publica- tion of Mr. Pratt's communication. * * * I believe that the publication of my letter would not only gratify him, but also place the Century right upon the record, where it surely desires to stand."
Mr. Palmer could say no more, but to his great chagrin, but not surprise, oil March 17th, he received a letter of thanks from the associate editor of the Century, in which
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 29
Mr. Johnson says: 'Tlease accept our thanks for your letter of the 14th, and for your obliging attitude in the matter." Whether any retraction from Mr. Pratt will ever appear in the Century is now, in view of the long delay, a a matter of great indifference to me."^
Now a few facts in regard to the Discovery of the Yose- mite Yalley by Capt. Joseph Reddeford Walker, for whom Walker's river, Lake and Pass were named. It is not a new claim, as supposed by Mr. E.. U. Johnson, but appears in the Peoples Encyclopcedia and was set up in the San Jose Pioneer soon after Capt. Walker's death, and an- swered by me in the same paper in 1880.
I cheerfully concede the fact set forth in tlie Pioneer article that, '''His were the first white inan's eyes that ever looked upon the Yosemite" above the valley, and in that sense, he was certainly the original white discoverer.
The topography of the country over which the Mono trail ran, and which was followed by Capt. Walker, did not admit of his seeing the valley proper. The depression indi- cating the valley, and its magnificent surroundings, could alone have been discovered, and in Capt. Walker's conver- sations with me at various times while encamped between Coultersville and the Yosemite, he was manly enough to say so. Upon one occaision I told Capt. AValker that Ten-ie-ya had said that, "A small party of white men once crossed the mountains on the north side, but were so guided as not to see the valley proper." With a smile the Captain said: "That was my party, but 1 was not deceived, for the lay of the land showed there was a valley below ; but we had become nearly bare-footed, our animals poor, and ourselves on the verge of starvation, so we followed down the ridge to Bull Creek, where, killing a deer, we went into camp."
*Mr. Pratt's retraction has finally appeared in the June number for 1891. •
80 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
The captaiD remained at his camp near Coulters ville for some weeks, and disappeared as suddenly as he came. He once expressed a desire to re-visit the region of the Yosemite in company with me, but could fix no date, as he told me he was in daily expectation of a government appointment as guide, which I learned was finally given him.
Captain Walker was a very eccentric man, well versed in the vocal and sign languages of the Indians, and went at his will among them. He may have visited the Yosemite from his camp before leaving. I was strongly impressed by the simple and upright character of Cap- tain Walker, and his mountain comrades spoke in the highest praise of his ability. Fremont, Kit Carson, Bill Williams, Alex Grody, Yincenthaler (not Yincent Haler, as erroneously appeared in the March number of the Century), Ferguson and others, all agreed in saying that as a mountain man, Captain Walker had no superior.
Rev. D. D. Chapin, of Maysville, Kentucky, formerly rector of Trinity Church, San Jose, and of St. Peter's Church, San Francisco, as well as editor of Paoific Church- man^ kindly called my attention to a seeming neglect of the claim for Captain Walker as the discoverer of the Yosemite. All that I have ever claimed for myself is, that I was one of the party of white men who first entered the Yosemite valley, as far as known to the Indians.
The fact of my naming the valley cannot be disputed. The existence of some terribly yawning abyss in the moun- tains, guarded at its entrance by a frightful "liock Chief," from whose head rocks would be hurled down upon us if we attempted to enter that resort of demons, was frequently described to us by crafty or superstitious Indians. Hence the greater our surprise upon first beholding a fit abode for angels of light. As for myself, I freely confess that my feelings of hostility against the Indians wer« overcome by
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 81
a sense of exaltation ; and although I had suffered losses of property and friends, the natural riglit of the Indians to their inheritance forced itself upon my mind.
The Mariposa Battalion, was assigned by Governor Mc- Dougall to the duty of keeping in subjection the Indian tribes on the east side of the San Joaquin and Tulare val- leys, from the Tuolumne river to the Te-hon Pass. As soon as the battalion was organized, Major Savage began his preparations for an expedition. There was but little delay in fitting out. Scouting parties were sent out, but with no other effect than to cause a general retreat of the Indians to the mountains, and a cessation of hostilities, except the annoyances from the small bands of thieving marauders. No Indians were overtaken by those detachments, though they were often seen provokingly near. When about to start on a more extended expedition to the mountains, Major Savage received an order from the Governor to suspend hostile operations until lie should receive further instruc- tions. We learned at about the same time through the news- papers, as well as from the Governor's messenger, that the United States Commissioners had arrived in San Francisco. Their arrival had for some time been expected.
Up to this period the Indian affairs of California had not been officially administered upon. Public officers had not before been appointed to look after the vast landed es- tates of the aboriginal proprietors of this territory, and to provide for their heirs. After some delay, the commission- ers arrived at our camp, which was located about fifteen miles below Mariposa village. Here the grazing was most excellent, and for that reason they temporarily established their head-quarters. These officials were Colonels Barbour and McKee, and Dr. Woozencroft. They were accompanied by Col. Keely Johnson, the Governor's aid, and by a small detachment of regulars. The commissioners at once pro-
9
32 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
ceeded to make a thorough investigation into the cause of the war, and of the condition of affairs generally. Having secured the services of some of the Mission Indians, these were sent out with instructions to notify all the tribes that the commissioners had been directed by the President to make peace between them and the white settlers; and that if they would come in, they should be assured protection.
The so-called Mission Indians were members of different tribes who had been instructed in the belief of the Catholic Church, at the old Spanish Missions. These Indians had not generally taken part in the war against the white set- tlers, although some of them, with the hostiles, were the most treacherous of their race, having acquired the vices and none of the virtues of their white instructors.
During this period of preliminaries a few Indians ven- tured in to have a talk with the commissioners. They were very shy and suspicions, for all had been more or less im- plicated in the depredations that had been committed. Presents were lavishly distributed, and assurances were given that all who came in should be supplied with food and clothing and other useful things. This policy soon be- came generally known to the Indians.
Among the delegations that visited the commissioners were Yowches-ter,* chief of one of the more peaceful bands, and Russio, a Mission Indian from the Tuolunme, but who in former years had belonged to some of the San Joaquin tribes. These chiefs had always appeared friendly, and had not joined in the hostile attitude assumed by the others. At the outbreak on the Fresno, Yow-ches-ter had been tem- porarily forced into hostilities by the powerful influence of Jose Rey, and by his desire to secure protection to his rela- tive, one of Savage's squaws. But with the fall of Jose Rey, his influence over Yow-ches-ter declined, and he was once more left free to show his friendship for the whites.
•An Indian corruption of Bautista.
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 33
As for Rnssio, his intelligent services were secured as peace- maker and general Indian interpreter by the conimissioners, while a much less competent Mission Indian, Sandino, served in the capacity of interpreter during expeditions into the mountains.
Having been assured of safety, these two chiefs promised to bring in their people and make peace with the whites. All that came in promised a cessation, on the part of their tribes, of the hostilties begun, for which they were rewarded with presents.
Yow-chester, when questioned, stated " that the mountain tribes would not listen to any terms of peace involving the abandonment of their territory; that in the fight near the North Fork of the San Joaquin, Jose Rey had been badly wounded and probably would die; that his tribe were very angry, and would not make peace." We had up to this time supposed Jore Rey had been killed at " Battle Moun- tain." Russio said: " The Indians in the deep rocky valley on the Merced river do not wish for peace, and will not come in to see the chiefs sent by the great father to make treaties. They think the white men cannot find their hiding places, and that therefore they cannot be driven out." The other Indians of the party confirmed Russio's statements. Yow- chester was the principal spokesman, and he said: " In this deep valley spoken of by Russio, one Indian is more than ten white men. The hiding; places are many. They will throw rocks down on the white men, if any should come near them. The other tribes dare not make war upon them, for they are lawdess like the grizzlies, and as strong. We are afraid to go to this valley, for there are many witches there."
Some of us did not consider Yow-chester's promise of friendship as reliable. We regarded him as one of the hos- tile mountain Indians. He, however, was never again en- 3
34 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
gaged in liostilities against the wliites. I afterwards learn- ed that Yow-cliester and Savage had once professed a strong friendship for each other. The trader at that time had taken a bride who was closely allied to tlie chief. Alter the destruction of Savage's trading posts, in which Yow-ches- ter had taken an active part in procuring a forcible divorce and division of property (though the murders were ascrib- ed to the Chow-chillas), all forms of friendship or relation- ship had ceased. At this interview no sign of recognition passed. After listening to this parley between the Com- missioners and the Indians, I asked Major Savage, who had been acting as interpreter, if he had ever been into the deep valley the Indians had been speaking of. He at first re- plied that he had, but on a subsequent conversation he cor- rected this statement by saying, "Last year while I was located at the mouth of the South Fork of the Merced, I was attacked by the Yosemites, but with the Indian miners I had in my employ, drove them off, and followed some of them up the Merced river into a canon, which I supposed led to their stronghold, as the Indians then with me said it was not a safe place to go into. From the appearance of this rocky gorge I had no difficulty in believing them. Fearing an ambush, I did not follow them. It was on this account that I changed my location to Mariposa creek. I would like to get into the den of the thieving murderers. If ever I have a chance I will smoke out the Grizzly Bears (the Yosemites) from their holes, where they are thought to be so secure."
'No peace messengers came in from the mountain Indians, who continued to annoy the settlers with their depredations, thieving from the miner's camps, and stealing horses and mules from the ranches. While we were awaiting the ac- tion of the commissioners, we lost some horses and mules, which were stolen from the vicinity of our camp. After
AND INDIAN WAR OF 18r>1. 35
the commissioners had decided upon the measures to be adopted, our battalion was ordered into line and we were then officially informed by Col. Johnson, that our opera- tions as a military organization, would henceforth be under the direction of the United States Commissioners. That by their order we were now assigned to the duty of subdu- ing such Indian tribes as could not otherwise be induced to make treaties wit'i them, and at once c ase hostilities and depredations. " Your officers will make all reports to the commissioners. Your orders and instructions will hereaf- ter be issued by them." The colonel then complimented the soldierly appearance of the battalion (very customary in later years) and then said: " While I do not hesitate to denounce the Indians for the murders and robberies com- mitted by them, we should not forget that there may ]:>er- haps be circumstances which, if taken into consideration, might to some extent excuse their hostility to the whites. The}^ probably feel that they themselves are the aggrieved party, looking upon us as trespassers upon their territory, invaders of their country, and seeking to dispossess them of their homes. It may be, they class us with the Spanish invaders of Mexico and California, whose cruelties in civil- izing and christianizing them are still traditionally fresh in their memories," etc. In conclusion the colonel said; "As I am about to leave, I will now bid you ' good bye,' with the hope that your actions will be in harmony with the wishes of the commissioners, and that in the performance of yonr duties, you will in all cases observe mercy where severity is not justly demanded."
Colonel Johnson gave us a very excellent little speech; but at that time we were not fully impressed with the just- ness of the remarks which had been made from l<inrlness of heart and sincerely humane feelings. Many of ns had lost — some heavily — by the depredations of the Indians.
36 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
Friends and relatives liad been victims of their atrocities. Murders and robberies had been committed without provo- cations then discernible to us. Many of us would then have been willing to adopt the methods of the old Spanish mission- aries, who, it was said, sometimes brought in their converts with the lasso. However, these orders and the speech from Col. Johnson were received with cheers by the more impa- tient and impulsive of the volunteers, who preferred active service to the comparative quiet of the camp.
The commissioners selected a reservation on the Fresno, near the foot-hills, about eighteen or twenty miles from our camp, to which the Indian tribes with whom treaties had been made were to be removed, and at this locality the com- missioners also established a camp, as head-quarters.
The deliberative action on the part of the commissioners, who were very desirous of having the Indians voluntarily come in to make treaties with them, delayed any active co- operation on the part of our battalion until the winter rains had fully set in. Our first extended expedition to the moun- tains was made during the prevailing storms of the vernal equinox, although detachments had previously made excur- sions into the country bordering upon the Sierras. This re- gion, like parts of Virginia, proved impassable to a mount- ed force during the wet season, and our operations were con- fined to a limited area.
It was at last decided that more extended operations were necessary to bring in the mountain tribes. Although fliere was no longer unity of action among them, they re- fused to leave their retreats, and had become even suspicious of each other. The defeat of Jose liey, and the desertion of the tribes who had made, or had promised to make, trea- ties with the commissioners, and had ceased from all hostile demonstrations, had e m:1 jealousies and discontent to divide even the most turbulent bands. For the extended
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 37
operations of the battalion among the mountains, it was decided that Major Savage, with the companies of Captains Boling and Dill, should make expeditions which would re- quire him to traverse the regions of the San Joaquin and Merced rivers. Captain Kuy-ken-dall with his company were to be detached to operate for the same purpose in the regions of the Kings and Kah-we-ah rivers. The Indians captured were to be escorted to the commissioners' camp on the Fresno. Notwithstanding a storm was gathering, our preparations were cheerfully made, and when the order to "form into line" was given, it was obeyed with alacrity. 'No "bugle call" announced orders to us; the "details" were made quietly, and we as quietly assembled. Prompt- ly as the word of command "mount," was given, every saddle was filled. With " forward march," we naturally filed ofi" into the order of march so readily assumed by mounted frontiersmen while traveling on a trail.
We left our camp as quietly and as orderly as such an un- disciplined body could be expected to move, but Major Sav- age said that we must all learn to be as still as Indians, or we would never find them.
This battalion was a body of hardy, resolute pioneers. Many of them had seen service, and had fought their way against the Indians across the plains; some had served in the war with Mexico and been under military discipline.
Although un uniformed, they were well armed, and their similarities of dress and accoutrements, gave them a general military appearance.
The temperature was mild and agreeable at our camp near the plain, but we began to encounter storms of cold rain as we reached the more elevated localities.
Major Savage being aware that rain on the foot-hills and plain at that season of the year indicated snow higher up, sent forward scouts to intercept such parties as might at-
38 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.
tempt to escape, but the storm continued to rage with such violence as to render this order useless, and we found the scouts awaiting us at the foot of a mountain known as the Black Kidge. This ridge is a spur of the Sierra l^evada. It separates the Mariposa, Chow-chilla, Fresno and San Joaquin rivers on the south from tlie Merced on the north. While halting for a rest, and sipping his coffee. Savage ex- pressed an earnest desire to capture the village he had ascertained to be located over the ridge on the south fork of the Merced. He was of the opinion that if it could be reached without their discovery of us, we sliould have no fighting to do there, as that band would surrender at once rather than endanger their women and children, who would be unable to escape through the snow. Toward this village we therefore marched as rapidl}^ as the nature of the steep and snow-obstructed trail would permit us to travel. An Indian that answered to the name of '" Bob," an attache of the Major, serving as guide. Climbing up this steep black mountain, we soon reached the region of snow, which at the summit, was fully four feet deep, though the cold was not intense. By this time, night was upon us. The trail led over the ridge at a point where its tabled summit was wooded with a forest of pines, cedars and firs, so dense as almost to exclude the light of the stars that now and then appeared struggling through the gloom.
We laboriously followed our guide and file leader, but this trail was so indistinctly seen in the darkness, that at in- tervals deep mutterings would be heard from some drowsy rider who missed the beaten path. As we commenced the descent of the ridge, the expressions became more forcible than polite when some unlucky ones found themselves floundering in the snow below the uncertain trail. If left to their own sagacity, a horse or mule will follow its lead- er; but if a self-willed rider insists upon his own judgment,
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 39
the poor animal has not only to suffer the extra fatigue in- curred bv a mistep, but also the punishment of the spur, and hear tlie explosive maledictions of the master. The irrita- ting responses of his comrades that " another fool lias been discovered," was not then calculated to sooth the wrath that was then let loose.
With short halts and repeated burrowings in the deep, damp snow, the South Fork of the Merced was at length reached about a mile below what is now known as Clark's, or Wah-wo-na, from Wah-ha wo-na, a Big Tree. We here made a halt, and our weary animals were provided with some barley, for the snow was here over a foot deep. The major announced that it was but a short distance below to the Indian village, and called for volunteers to accom- pany him — it might be for a fight or perhaps only a foot- race— circumstances would determine which. The major's call was promptly and fully answered, although all were much fatigued with the tedious night march. The animals were left, and a sufficient number was selected to remain as a reserve force and camp guard. At daylight we filed away on foot to our destination, following the major who was guided by " Bob."
40 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,
OHAPTEK III.
March Down the South Fork— Capture of an Indian Village— Hungry Men— An able Surgeon— Snow Storms- Visit of Ten-ei-ya, Chief of the Yosemites — Commander's Dilemma — Unique Manner of Extrica- tion— Approaching the Valley — First View — Sensations Experienced — A Lofty Flight Brought Down.
There was a very passable trail for horses leading down the riirlit bank of the river, but it was overlooked on the left bank by the Indian village, which was situated on a high point at a curve in the river that commanded an exten- sive view up and down. To avoid being seen, the Major led us along down the left bank, where we were compelled, at times, to wade into the rushing torrent to avoid the precipi- tous and slippery rocks, which, in places, dipjDcd into the stream. Occasionally, from a stumble, or from the decep- tive depths of the clear mountain stream, an unfortunate one was immersed in the icy fluid, which seemed colder than the snow-baths of the mountain. With every precau- tion, some became victims to these mischances, and gave vent to their emotions, when suddenly immersed, by hoarse curses, which could be heard above the splash and roar of the noisy water. These men (headed by Surgeon Bronson) chilled and benumbed, were sent back to the camp to " dry their ammunition." (?) After passing this locality — our march thus far having alternated in snow and water — we ar- rived, without being discovered, in sight of the smoke of their camp-fires, where we halted for a short rest.
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 41
Major Savage gave some orders to Captain Boling which were not then understood by me. On again resuming oiir march, the Major, with " Bob," started at a rapid step, while the others maintained a slow gait.
I followed the Major as I had been accustomed during the march. I soon heard an audible smile^ evidently at my ex- pense. I comprehended that I had somehow "sold" my- self, but as the Major said nothing, I continued my marcli. I observed a pleased expression in the Major's countenance, and a twinkle of his eyes when he glanced back at me as if he enjoyed the fun of the "boys ' behind us, while he increased his speed to an Indian jog-trot. I determined to appear as unconscious, as innocent of my blunder, and ac- commodate my gait to his movements. My pride or vanity was touched, and I kept at his heels as he left the trot for a more rapid motion. After a run of a mile or more, we reached the top of a narrow ridge which overlooked the vil- lage. The Major here cast a side glace at me as he threw himself on the ground, saying: "I alwa3^s prided myself on my endurance, but somehow this morning my bott( m fails me." As quietly as I could I remarked that he had prob- ably been traveling faster than he was aware of, as "Bob" must be some way behind us. After a short scrutiny of my unconcerned innocence, he burst into a low laugh and said: "Bunnell, you play it well, and you have beaten me at a game of my own choosing. I have tested your endurance, however; such qualifications are really valuable in our pres- ent business." He then told me as I seated niys'lf near him, that he saw I had not understood the order, and had •increased his speed, thinking I would drop back and wait for the others to come up, as he did not wish to order me back, although he had preferred to make this scout alone with "Bob," as they were both acquainted with the band and the region they occupy. While we were resting '' Bob "
42 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.
came up. The Major gave him some direction in an Indian dialect I did not understand, and he moved on to an adjoin- ing thicket, while the Major and myself crawled to the shelter of a bunch of blue brush (California lilac), just above where we had halted.
After obtaining the desired information without being seen, Bob was sent back to Captain Boling to "hurry him up." While awaiting the arrival of our command, I, in answer to his inquiries, informed the Major that I had come to Detroit, Michigan, in 1833, when it was but little more than a frontier village; that the Indians annually assembled there and at Maiden, Canada, to receive their annuities. At that time, being but nine years of age, and related to Indian traders, I was brought in contact with their customers, and soon learned their language, habits and character, which all subsequent attempts to civilize me had tailed entirely to eradicate. This statement evidently pleased the Major, and finding me familiar with frontier life, he continued his conversation, and I soon learned that I was acquainted with some of his friends in the l^orth- west. I have related this incident because it was the begin- ning of an intimate friendship which ever afterward existed between us.
On the arrival of Captains Boling and Dill with their respective companies, we were deployed into skirmish line, and advanced toward the encampment without any effort at concealment. On discovering us the Indians hurriedly ran to and fro, as if uncertain what course to pursue. See- ing an unknown force approaching, they threw up their hands in token of submission, crying out at the same time in Spanhh, ^' Face/ pace/ ^^ (peace! peace!) We were at once ordered to halt while Major Savage went forward to arrange for the surrender. The Major was at once recognized and cordially received by such of the band as he desired to
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.
confer with officially. We found the village to be that of Pon-wat-chee, a chief of the Noot-chii tribe, whose people had formerly worked for Savage under direction of Cow- chit-tv, his brother, and from whose tribe Savage had taken Ee-e-ke-no, one of his former wives. The chief professed still to entertain feelings of friendship for Savage, saying that he was now willing to obey his counsels. Savage, in re- sponse, lost no time in preliminary affairs.
lie at once told the chief the object of the expedition, and his requirements. His terms were promptly agreed to, and before we had time to examine the captives or their wig- wams, they had commenced packing tlieir supplies and re- moving their property from their bark huts. This done, the torch was applied by the Indians themselves, in token of their sincerity in removing to the Keservations on the Fresno.
By the Major's orders they had at once commenced their preparations for removal to a rendezvous, which he had se- lected nearly opposite this encampment, which was accessi- ble to horses. This plateau was also the location designated for our camp. This camp was afterwards used by an employe at the agency, whose name was Bishop, and was known as Bishop's Camp. It is situated on an elevated table, on the right side of the valley of the South Fork.
"While the Indians were preparing for their transfer to the place selected, our tired and hungry men began to feel the need of rest and refreshments. We had traveled a much longer distance since the morning before than had been estimated in expectation of a halt, and many of the men had not tasted food since the day before.
John Hankin told Major Savage that if a roast dog could be procured, he would esteem it an especial lavor. Bob McKee thought this a capital time to learn to eat acorn bread, but after trying some set before him by "a young
44 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.
and accomplished squaw," as the Major cynically termed her, concluded he was not yet hungry enough for its enjoy ment.
A call was made for volunteers to go back to bring up the reserve and supplies, but the service was not very promptly accepted. McKee, myself and two others, how- ever, offered to go with the order to move down to the se- lected rendezvous. Three Indians volunteerd to go with us as guides; one will seldom serve alone. We found the trail on the right bank less laborious to travel than was expected, for the snow had mostly disappeared from the loose, sandy soil, which upon this side of the river has a southwesterly exposure. On our. arrival in camp prej^arations were begun to obey the order of the Major. Wh ile coffee was being prepared Doctor Bronson wisely prescribed and most skillfully admin- istered to us a refreshing draught of ''^Aqtia Ardente.'^^
After a hasty hreahfast^ we took to our saddles, and tak- ing a supply of biscuits and cold meat, left the train and arrived at the new camp ground just as our hungry com- rades came up from the Indian village. The scanty sup- plies, carried on our saddles, were thankfully received and speedily disposed of. The Indians had not yet crossed the river. We found that we had traveled about twelve miles, while our comrades and the captives had accomplished only three.
From this camp, established- as our headquarters, or as a base of operations while in this vicinity. Major Savage sent Indian runners to the bands ^vho were supposed to be hiding in the mountains. These messengers were instruct- ed to assure all the Indians that if they would go and make treaties with the commissioners, they would there be fur- nished with food and clothing, and receive protection, but if they did not come in, he should make v/ar upon them until he destroyed them all.
AND INDIAN WAR OF :1851. 45
Pon-wat-chee had told the Major when his own village was captured, that a small band of Po-ho-no-chees were en- camped on the sunny slope of the divide of the Merced, and he having at once dispatched a runner to them, they began to come into camp. This circumstance afforded en- couragement to the Major, but Pon-wat-chee was not en- tirely sanguine of success with the Yosemites, though he told the Major that if the snow continued deep they could not escape.
At first but few Indians came in, and these were very cau- tious— dodging behind rocks and trees, as if fearful we would not recognize their friendly signals.
Being fully assured by those who had already come in, of friendly treatment, all soon came in who were in our imme- diate vicinity. None of the Yosemites had responded to the general message sent. Upon a special envoy being sent to the chief, he appeared the next day in person. He came alone, and stood in dignified silence before one of the guard, until motioned to enter camp. He was immediately rec- ognized by Pon-wat-chee as Ten-ie-j^a, the old chief of the Yosemites, and was kindly cared fur — being well supplied with food — after which, with tlie aid of the other Indians, the Major informed him of the wishes of the commission- ers. The old sachem was very suspicious of Savage, and feared he was taking this method of getting the Yosemi- tes into liis power for the purpose of revenging his per- sonal wrongs. Savage told liim tliat if he would go to tlie commissioners and make a treaty of peace with them, as the other Indians were going to do, there woukl be no more war. Ten-ie-ya cautiously inquired as to the object of tak- ing all the Indians to the plains of the San Joaquin valley, and said: " My people do not want anything from the 'Great Father' you tell me about. The Great Spirit is our father, and he has always supplied us with all we need. We do
46 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.
not want anything from white men. Our women are able to do our work. Go, then; let us remain in the mountains where we were born ; where the ashes of our fathers have been given to the winds. I have said enough!"
This was abruptly answered by Savage, in Indian dialect and gestures: "If you and your people have all you desire, why do you steal our liorses and mules? Why do you rob the miners' camps? Why do you murder the white men, and plunder and burn their houses?"
Ten-ie-ya sat silent for some time; it was evident he un- derstood what Savage had said, for he replied: "My young men have sometimes taken horses and mules from the whites. It was wrong for them to do so. It is not wrong to take the property of enemies, who have wronged my people. My young men believed the white gold-diggers were our enemies; we now know they are not, and we will be glad to live in peace with them. We will stay here and be friends. My people do not want to go to the plains. The tribes who go there are some of them very bad. They will make war on my people. We cannot live on the plains with them. Here we can defend ourselves against them."
In reply to this Savage very deliberately and firmly said: "Your people must go to the Commissioners and make terms with them. If they do not, your young men will again steal our horses, your people will again kill and plun- der the whites. It was your people who robbed my stores, burned my houses, and murdered my men. If they do not make a treaty, your whole tribe will be destroj^ed, not one of them will be left alive." At this vigorous ending of the Major's speech, the old chief replied: "It is useless to talk to you about who destroyed your property and killed your people. If the Chow-chillas do not boast of it, they are cowards, for they led us on. I am old and you can kill me
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 47
if you will, but what use to lie to you who know more than all the Indians, and can beat them in their big liunts of deer and bear. Therefore I will not lie to you, but promise that if allowed to return to my people I will bring them in." He was allowed to go. The next day he came back, and said his people would soon come to our camp; that when he had told them they could come with safety they were willing to go and make a treaty with the men sent by the "Great Father," who was so good and rich. Another day passed, but no Indians made their appearance from the " deep valley," spoken of so frequently by those at our camp. The old chief said the snow was so deep that they could not travel fast, that his village was so far down (gesticulating, by way of illustration, with his hands) that when the snow was deep on the mountains they would be a long time climb- ing out of it. As we were at the time having another storm Ten-ie-ya's explanation was accepted, but was closely watch- ed.
The next day passed without their coming, although the snow storm had ceased during the night before. It was then decided tliat it would be necessary to go to tlie village of the Yosemites, and bring them in; and in case they could not be found there, to follow to their hiding-places in the deep canon, so often represented as sucli a dangerous locality. Ten-ie-ya was questioned as to the route and the time it would take his people to come in; and when he learned we were going to his village, he represented that the snow was so deep that the horses could not go through it. He also stated that the rocks were so steep that our horses could not climb out of the valley if they should go into it. Captain Boling caused Ten-ie-ya's statements to be made known to his men. It was customary in all of our expeditions where the force was divided, to call for volunteers. The men were accordingly drawn up into line, and the call made that
48 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.
all who wished to go to the village of the Yosemites were to step three paces to the front. When the order to advance was given, to the surprise of Captains Boling and Dill, each com- pany moved in line as if on parade. The entire body had vol- unteered. As a camp-guard was necessary, a call was then made for volunteers for this duty. When the word " march " was again repeated, but a limited number stepped to the front. Captain Boling, with a smile on his good-natured face, said: "A camp-guard will have to be provided in some way. I honor the sentiment that prompted you all to vol- unteer for the exploration, and I also appreciate the sacrifice made by those who are willing to stay; but these are too few. Our baggage, supplies and Indian captives must be well guarded. I endeavored to make the choice of duty voluntary, by representing the difficulties that might rea- sonably be expected, and thus secure those best suited for the respective duty of field and camp. I am baffled, but not defeated, fori have another test of your fitness; it is a foot- race. You know it has been represented to us by Ten-ie-ya that the route to his village is an extremely difficult one, and impassable for our horses. It may not be true, but it will be prudent to select men for the expedition who have proved their endurance and fleetness, I now propose that you de- cide what I have found so difficult."
This proposition was received with shouts of laughter, and the arrangements for the contest were at once commenced, as it aflforded a source of frolicsome amusement. A hun- dred yards were paced oflP, and the goal conspicuously marked. A distance line was to determine who should con- stitute the camp-guard. I doubt if such boisterous hilarity and almost boyish merriment was ever before seen while making a detail from any military organization.
The Indians were at first somewhat alarmed at the noisy preparations, and began to be fearful of their safety, but on
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 49
learning the cause of the excitement, they, too, became in- terested in the proceedings, and ex])ressed a desire to par- ticipate in the race. Two or tliree were allowed to join in as proxies for the " heavy ones " who concluded not to run, though willing to pay the yonng Indians to represent them in the r;ice, ])rovided they came out ahead. One young In- dian did bent eveiy man, except Bob McKee, for whom he manifested great admiration. Many anxious ones ran bare- footed in the snow. The Indian's motions were not impeded by any civilized garments; a modest waist cloth was all they had on. In subsequent races, after a long rest, several of our men demonstrated that their racing powers were su- perior to the fastest of the Indian runners. Captain Bo- ling's racing scheme brought out the strong points of the runners. Enough were distanced in both companies to se- cure an ample camp-guard. The envious guard raised the point that this method of detail was simply a proof of legs, not brains. It was reported in camp that Captain Boling had kept a record of the speedy ones which he had tiled away for future use in cases where fleetness of foot would be re- quired for extra duties.
Preparations were made for an early start the next mor- ning. The officer to be left in charge of the camp was in- structed to allow the Indians all liberty consistent with safety^ and to exercise no personal restraint over them un- less there should be an evident attempt to leave in a body; when, of course, any movement of the kind was to be de- feated. The Major said: "I deem tlie presence of the wo- men and children a sufficient hostage for the peaceful con- duct of the men, but do not allow any of them to enter our tents, or we may lose possession."
This last injunction was to guard against annoyance from vermin. The pediculi of the Indian race have an especial affinity for them. White people have but little to fear from 4
•
50 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
Indian vermin except the temporary annoyance that is ex- perienced from some species that infest animals and birds. They do not find the transfer congenial, and soon disappear. This fact may not be generally known, bnt I believe it to be a normal arrangement for the exclusive comfort of the Indian.
To me this is quite suggestive, when considered as evi- dence of a diversity of origin of the races. I have been very particular in my observations in this matter, and have compared my own with the experiences of others, and have been led to the conclusion that each separate race has para- sites indigenous to that race, although the genus may be common to each.
This reluctant adaptability of these " entomological in- conveniences" saved us from one of the curses of the an- cient Egyptians, when contact was unavoidable.
As no information had been received from the camp of the Yosemites, after an early breakfast, the order was passed to " fall in," and when the order '' march " was given, we moved otf in single file, Savage leading, with Ten-ie-ya as guide.
From the length of time taken by the chief to go and return from his encampment, it was supposed that with horses, and an early start, we should be able to go and re- turn the same day, if for any cause it should be deemed desirable, although sufficient supplies were taken, in case of a longer delay.
While ascending to the divide between the South Fork and the main Merced we found but little snow, but at the divide, and beyond, it was from three to five feet in depth, and in places much deeper. The sight of this somewhat cooled our ardor, but none asked for a '-'furlough.-^
To somewhat equalize the laborious duties of making a trail, each man was required to take liis turn in front.
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 51
The leader of the column was frequently changed; no horse or mule could long endure the fatigue without relief. To ef- fect this, the tired leader dropped out of line, resigning his position to his followers, taking a place in the rear, on the beaten trail, exemplifying, that "the first shall be last, and the last shall be first." The snow packed readily, so that a very comfortable trail was left in the rear of our column.
Old Ten-ie-ya relaxed the rigidity of his bronze features, in admiration of our method of making a trail, and assured us, that, notwithstanding the depth of snow, we would soon reach his village. We had in our imaginations pictured it as in some deep rocky canon in the mountains.
While in camp the frantic efforts of the old chief to de- scribe the location to Major Savage, had resulted in the unanimous verdict among the " boys," who were observing him, that "it must be a devil of a place." Feeling encour- aged by the hope that we should eoon arrive at the residen- ces of his Satanic majesty's subjects, we wallowed on, alter- nately becoming the object of a joke, as we in turn were ex- tricated from the drifts. When we had traversed a little more than half the distance, as was afterwards proved, we met the Yosemites on their way to our rendezvous on the South Fork.
As they filed past us, the major took acconnt of their number, which was but seventy-two. As the}^ reached our beaten trail, satisfaction w^as variously expressed, by grunts from the men, by the low rippling laughter from the squaws, and by the children clapping their hands in glee at the sight. On being asked where the others of his band were, the old Sachem said, "This is all of my people that are wil- ling to go with me to the plains. Many that have been with me are from other tribes. They have taken wives from my band ; all have gone with their wives and children to the Tuolumne and to the Monos." Savage told Ten-ie-
52 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
ja that he was telling him that which was not true. The Indians could not cross the mountains in the deep snow, neither could tliej go over the divide of the Tuolumne. Tliat he knew they were still at his village or in hiding places near it. Ten-ie-ya assured the major he was telling him the truth, and in a very solemn manner declared that none of his band had been left behind — that all had gone before his people had left. His people had not started before because of the snow storm.
With a belief that but a small part of Ten-ei-ya's band was with this party. Major Savage decided to go on to the Indian village and ascertain if any others could be found or traces of them discovered. This decision was a satisfactory one and met with a hearty approval as it was reported along the line.
This tribe had been estimated by Pon-wat-chee and Cow- chit-tee, as numbering more than two handred; as about that number usually congregated when they met together to ''''cache''' their acorns in the valley, or for a grand an- nual hunt and drive of game; a custom which secured an abundant supply for the feast that followed.
At other times they were scattered in bands on the sun- ny slopes of the ridges, and in the mountain glens. Ten-ie- ya had been an unwilling guide thus far, and Major Savage said to him: " You may return to camp with your people, and I will take one of your young men with me. There are but few of your people here. Your tribe is large. I am going to your village to see your people, who will not come with you. They will come with me if I find them."
Savage then selected one of the young " braves " to ac- company him. Ten-ie-ya replied, as the young Indian stepped forward by his direction, " I will go with my people; my young man shall go with you to mj^ village. You will
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 53
not find any people there. I do not know where they are. My tribe is snia^l — not large, as the white chief has said. The Pai-utes and Mono's are all gone. Many of the people with my tribe are irom western tribes that have come to me and do not wish to return. If they go to the plains and are seen, they will be killed by the friends of those with whom they had quarreled. I have talked with my people and told them I was going to see the white chiefs sent to make peace. I was told that I was growing old, and it was well that I should go, but that young and strong men can find plenty in the mountains; therefore why should they go? to be yarded like horses and cattle. My heart has been sore since that talk, but I am now willing to go, for it is best for my people that I do so."
The Major listened to the old Indian's volubility for awhile, but interrupted him with a cheering "Forward march!" at which the impatient command moved briskly forward over the now partly broken trail, leaving the chief alone, as his people had already gone on.
We found the traveling much less laborious than before, ,and it seemed but a short time after we left the Indians before we suddenly came in full view of the valley in which was the village, or rather the encampments of the Yosemities. The immensity of rock I had seen in my vision on the Old Bear Yalley trail from Kidley's Ferry was here presented to my astonished gaze. The mystery of that scene was here disclosed. My awe was increased by this nearer view. The face of the immense cliff was shad- owed by the declining sun; its outlines only had been seen at a distance. This towering mass
" Fools our fond gaze, and greatest of the great, Defies at first our Nature's littleness, Till, growing with (to) its growth, we thus dilate Our spirits to the size of that they contemplate.'*
u
DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMfTE,
That stupendous cliff is now known as "El Capitan " (the Captain), and the plateau from which we had our first view of the valley, as Mount Beatitude.
It has been said that " it is not easy to describe in words
the precise impressions which great objects make upon us." I cannot describe how com- pletely I realized this truth. None but those who have vis- ited this most wonderful val- ley, can even imagine the feel- ings with which I looked upon the view that was there pre- sented. The grandeur of the ti|i|^^'scene was but softened by the yf\ haze that hung over the val- ley,— light as gossamer — and by the clouds which partially dimmed the higher cliffs and II mountains. This obscurity of vision but increased the awe with which I beheld it, and as I looked, a peculiar exalted sensation seemed to fill my whole I being, and I found my eyes in tears ;|with emotion.
During many subsequent visits to this locality, this sensation was never again so fully aroused. It is prob- able that the shadows fast clothing all before me, and the vapory clouds at the head of the valley, leaving the view beyond still unde- fined, gave a weirdness to the scene, that made it so impres- sive; and the conviction that it was utterly indescribable
EL CAPITAN. (3,300 feet in height.)
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 55
added strength to the emotion. It is not possible for the same intensity of feeling to be aroused more than once by the same object, although I never looked upon these scenes except with wonder and admiration.
Richardson, in his admirable work, "Beyond the Missis- sippi," says: "See Yosemite and die! I sliall not attempt to describe it; the subject is too large and my capacity too small. * * * Painfully at first these stupendous walls confuse the mind. By degrees, day after day, the sight of them clears it, until at last one receives a just impression of their solemn immensity. ^ * * Yolumes ought to be and will be written about it."
Mr. Richardson has expressed in graphic language the impressions produced upon nearly all who for the first time behold this wonderful valley. The public has now, to a cer- tain degree, been prepared for these scenes.
They are educated by the descriptions, sketches, photo- graphs and masterly paintings of Hill and Bierstadt; whereas, on our first visit, our imagination had been mis- led by the descriptive misrepresentations of savages, whose prime object was to keep us from their safe retreat, until we had expected to see some terrible abyss. The reality so little resembled the picture of imagination, that my aston- ishment was the more overpowering.
To obtain a more distinct and quiet view, I had left the trail and \nj horse and wallowed through the snow alone to a projecting granite ruck. So interested was I in the scene before me, that I did not observe that my comrades had all moved on, and that I would soon be left indeed alone. My situation attracted the attention of Major Savage, — who was riding in rear of column, — who hailed me from the trail below with, "you had better wake up from that dream up there, or you may lose your hair ; I have no faith in Ten-ie-ya's statement that there are no Indians about here.
56 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
\Ye had better be moving; some of the murdering devils may be lurking along this trail to pick off stragglers." I hurriedly joined the Major on the descent, and as other views presented themselves, I said with some enthu- siasm, " If my hair is now required, I can depart in peace, for I have here seen the power and glory of a Supreme being; the majesty of Ilis handy-work is in that 'Testi- mony of the Eocks.' That mute appeal — pointing to El Capitan — illustrates it, with more convincing eloquence than can the most powerful arguments of surpliced priests.'' " Hold up. Doc ! you are soaring too high forme; and per- haps for yourself. This is rough riding ; we had better mind this devilish trail, or we shall go soaring over some of these slippery rocks." We, however, made the descent in safety. When we overtook the others, we found blazing tires started, and preparations commenced to provide supper for the hungry command; w4iile the light-hearted "boys" were indulging their tired horses with the abundant grass found on the meadow near by, which was but lightly cov- ered with snow.
Mr. J. M. Hutchings has recently cited Elliott's History of Fresno Connty and dispatches from Major Savage as proof that it was May 5th or 6th, 1851, that the Mariposa Battalion first entered the Yosemite, As a matter of fact, our adjutant was not with us when the discovery was made in March, nor was there ever but two companies in the Yosemite at any time, Boling's and part of Dill's. Captain Dill himself was detailed for duty at the Fresno, after the expedition in March, as was also the adjutant. In making out his report, Mr. Lewis must have ignored the first entry of tlie valley by the few men who discovered it, and made his first entry to appear as the date of the discovery. This may or may not have been done to give impoitaiice to the operations of the battalion. I have never seen the report.
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.
CHAPTER lY.
Naming- the Valley — Sig-nification and Orio^in of the Word — Tts proper Pronunciation: Yo-sera-i-ty — Mr. Hutchings and Yo-Ham-i-te— His Restoration of Yo-sem-i-te.
My d voiit astoTiisliment at the supreme grandeur of tlie scenery by which I was surrounded, continued to engross my mind. The warmth of the fires and preparations for supper, however, awakened in me other sensations, which rapidly dissipated my excitement. As we rode up, Major Savage remarked to Capt. Boling, " We liad better move on up, and hunt out the "Grizzlies" before w^e go into camp for the niglit. We shall yet have considerable time to look about this hole before dark." Captain Boling then reported that the young guide had halted here, and poured out a volley of Indian lingo which no one could understand, and had given a negative shake of his head when the course was pointed out, and signs were made for him to move on. The Captain, not comprehending this performance, had fol- lowed the trail of the Indians to the bank of the stream near by, but had not ventured furtlier, thinking it best to wait for Major Savage to come up. After a few inquiries, the Major said there was a ford below, where the Indians crossed the Merced; and that he would go with the guide and examine it. Major Savage and Captains Boling and Dill then started down to the crossing. They soon re- turned, and we were ordei-ed to arrange our camp for the night. Captain Boling said the Merced was too high to
58 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,
ford. The river had swollen during the day from the melt- ing of the snow, but would fall again by morning.
The guide had told the Major there was no other way up the valley, as it was impossible to pass the rocks on the south side of the stream. From this, it was evident the Major had never before seen the valley, and upon inquiry, said so. One of our best men, Tunnehill, who had been listening to what the Captain was saying, very positively remarked : *'I have long since learned to discredit every- thing told by an Indian. I never knew one to tell the truth. This imp of Satan has been lying to the Major, and to me his object is very transparent. He knows a better ford than the one below us." A comrade laughingly ob- served : " Perhaps you can find it for the Major, and help him give us an evening ride; I have had all the exercise I need to-day, and feel as hungry as a wolf." Without a reply, Tunnehill mounted his litcle black mule and left at a gallop. He returned in a short time, at the same rapid gate, but was in a sorry plight. The mule and rider had unexpectedly taken a plunge bath in the ice-cold waters of the Merced. As such mishaps excited but little sympathy, Tunnehill was greeted with : " Hallo 1 what's the matter, comrade?" "Where do you get your washing done?" "Been trying to cool off that frisky animal, have you?" " Old Ten-ie-ya's Canon is not in as hot a place as we sup- posed, is it?" "How about the reliability of the Indian race?" To all these bantering jokes, though in an uncom- fortable plight, Tunnehill, with great good nature, replied : " I am all right ! I believe in orthodox immersion, but this kind of baptism has only confirmed me in previous convic- tions." The shivering mule was rubbed, blanketed, and provided for, before his master attended to his own com- fort, and then we learned that, in his attempt to explore a way across the Merced, his mule was swept off its feet, and
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.
59
both were carried for some distance down the raging tor- rent.
After Slipper, guards stationed, and the camp fires plen- tifnllj provided for, we-gatliered around the burning logs of oak and pine, found near our camp. Tlie hearty supper and cheerful blaze created a general good
'^i^^4^^
"^^r
BRIDAL VEIL FALL. (630 feet in height.)
feeling. Social converse and anecdotes — mingled with jokes — were freely exchanged, as we enjoyed the solace of our pipes and wanned ourselves preparatory to seeking further refresli- ment in sleep. While thus engaged, I retained a full con-
60 DISCOVERY OF THE Y OS E MITE,
scioiisness of our locality; for being in close proximity to tlie huge cliff that had so attracted my attention, my mind was frequently drawn away from my comrades. After the jollity of the camp had somewhat subsided, the valley be- came the topic of conversation around our camp fire. E'one of us at that time, surmised the extreme vastness of those cliffs; although before dark, we had seen El Capitan look- ing down upon our camp, while the " Bridal Yeil'- was being wafted in the breeze. Many of us felt the mysterious grandeur of the scenery, as defined by our limited opportu- nity to study it. I had — previous to my descent with the ]\Xajor— observed the towering height above us of the old "Kock Chief,'- and noticing the length of the steep descent into the valley, had at least some idea of its solemn im- mensity.
It may appear sentimental, but the coarse jokes of the careless, and the indifference of the practical, sensibly jarred my more devout feelings, while this subject was a matter of general conversation; as if a sacred subject had been ruthlessly profaned, or the visible power of Deity disre- firarded. After relatins: mv observations from the " Old Bear Yalley Trail," I suggested that this valley should have an appropriate name by which to designate it, and in a tone of pleasantry, said to Tunnehill, who was drying his wet clothing by our fire, " You are the first white man that ever received any form of baptism in this valley, arid you should be considered the proper person to give a baptismal name to the valley itself." He replied, " If whisky can be pro- vided for such a ceremony, I shall be happy to participate; but if it is to be another cold water affair, I have no desire to take a hand. I have done enough in that line for to- night." Timely jokes and ready repartee for a time changed the subject, but in the lull of this exciting pastime, some one remarked, " I like Bunnell's suggestion of giving this
AXD INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 61
valley a name, and to-night is a good time to do it." "All right — if yon have got one, show yonr liaiid," was tlie re- sponse of another. Different names were proposed, but none were satisfactory to a majority of onr circle. Some romantic and foreign names were offei'ed, but I observed that a very large number were canonical and Scripture names. From this I inferred that I was not the only one in whom religious emotions or thoughts had been aroused by the mysterious power of the surrounding scenery.
As T did not take a fancy to any of the names ])roposed, I remarked that "an American name would be the most appropriate; " that " I could not see any necessity for going to a foreign country for a name for American scenery — the grandest that had ever yet been looked upon. That it would be better to give it an Indian name than to import a strange and inexpressive one; that the name of the tribe who had occupied it, would be more appropriate than any I had heard suggested." I then proposed " that we give the valley the name of Yo-sem-i-ty, as it was suggestive, eu- phonious, and certii'] n\y Amerlca7i; that by so doing, the name of the tribe of Indians which we met leaviuir their homes in tliis valley, perhaps never to return, would beper- •etuated." I was here interrupted by Mr. Tunnehill, who tiipariently exchiimed: "Devil take the Indians and their :anies! Why should we honor these vagabond murderers >y perpetuating their name? " Another said: " I agree with
rnntiehill; the Indians and their names. Mad An-
hony's plan for me! Let's call this Paradise Valley." In reply, I said to the last speaker, "Still, for a young man with such religious tendencies they would be good objects '»n which to develop your Christianity." Unexpectedly, a earty laugh was raised, which broke U]) further discus >ion, and before opportunity was given for any others to object to the name, John O'Neal, a rollicking Texan of
62 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
Capt. Boling's company, vociferously announced to the wliole camp the subject of our discussion, by saying, " Hear ve! Hear ye! Hear ye! A vote will now be taken to decide what name shall be given to this valley." The question of giving it the name of Yo-sem-i-ty was then explained; and upon a viva voce vote being taken, it was almost unani- mously adopted. The name that was there and thus adopted by us, while seated around our camp fires, on the tirst visit of a white man to this remarkable locality, is the name by which it is now known to tlie world.
At the time I proposed this name, the signification of it (a grizzly bear) was not generally known to our battalion, although " the grizzlies " was frequently used to designate this tribe. Neither w^as it pronounced with uniformity. For a correct pronunciation. Major Savage was our best author- ity, tie could speak the dialects of most of the mountain tribes in this part of California, but he confessed that he could not readily understand Ten-ie-ya, or the Indian guide, as they appeared to speak a Pai-ute jargon.
Major Savage checked the noisy demonstrations of our "Master of Ceremonies," but approvingly participated in our proceedings, and told us that the name w^as Yo-sem-i-ty, as pronounced by Ten-ie-ya, or 0-soom-i-ty, as pronounced by some other bands; and that it signified a full-grown griz- zly bear. He further stated, that the name was given to old Ten-ie-ya's band, because of their lawless and predatory character.
As I had observ^ed that the different tribes in Mariposa County diftered somewhat in the pronunciation of this name, I asked an explanation of the fact. With a smile and a look, as if he suspected I was quizzing him, the Major replied : "They only difier, as do the Swedes, Danes and Norwegians, or as in the different Shires of England; but you know well enough how similar in sound words may
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 63
be of entirely different meaning, and how much depends on accent. I have found this to be the greatest difficulty a learner has to contend with."
After the name had been decided upon, the Major nar- rated some of his experiences in the use of the general "sign language" — as a Eocky Mountain man — and his practice of it when he first came among the California Indians, until he had acquired their language. The Major regarded the Kah-we-ah, as the parent language of the San-Joaquin Yalley Indians, while that in use by the other mountain tribes in their vicinity, were but so many dialects of Kah-we-ah, the Pai-ute and more JSTorthern tribes. When we sought our repose, it was with feelings of quiet satisfaction that I wrapped myself in my blankets, and soundly slept.
I consider it proper, to digress somewhat from a regular narrative of the incidents of our expedition, to consider some matters relative to the name '' Yosemity." This was the form of orthography and pronunciation originally in use by our battalion. Lieutenant Moore, of the U. S. A. in his report of an expedition to the Yalley in 1852, substi- tuted e as the terminal letter, in place of y, in use by us; no doubt thinking the use of e more scholarly, or perhaps supposing Yosemite to be of Spanish derivation. This orthography has been adopted, and is in general use, but the proper pronunciation, as a consequence, is not always attainable to the general reader.
Sometime after the name had been adopted, I learned from Major Savage that Ten-ei-ya repudiated the name for the Yalley, but proudly acknowledged it as the designation of his band, claiming that " when he was a young chief, this name had been selected because they occupied the mountains and valleys which were the favorite resort of the Grizzly Bears, and because his people were expert in
64 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
killing them. Tliat his tribe had adopted the name because those who had bestowed it were afraid of ' the Grizzlies' and feared his band."
It was traditionary with the other Indians, that the band to which the name Yosemite had been given, had originally been formed and was then composed of outlaws or refugees from other tribes. That nearly all were descendants of the neighboring tribes on both sides of "Kay-o-pha," or " Skye Mountains/^ the " High Sierras."
Ten-ie-ya was asked concerning this tradition, and re- sponded rather loftily: "I am the descendant of an Ah- wah-ne-chee chief. His people lived in the mountains and valley where my people have lived. The valley was then called Ah-wah-nee. Ah-wah-ne-chee signifies the dwellers in Ahwahnee.".
I afterwards learned the traditional history of Ten-ie-ya's ancestors. His statement was to the effect, that the Ah- wah-ne-chees had many years ago been a lai-ge tribe, and lived in territory now claimed by him and his people. That by wars, and a fatal black-sickness (probably small- pox or measles), nearly all had been destroyed. Tlie survi- vors of the band fied from the valley and joined other tribes. For years afterward, the country was uninhabited; but few of the extinct tribe ever visited it, and from a superstitious fear, it was avoided. Some of his ancestors had gone to the Mono tribe and been adopted by them. His father had taken a wife from that tribe. His mother was a Mono woman, and he had lived with her people while young. Eventually, Ten-ie-ya, with some of his fatlier's tribe had visited the valley, and claimed it as their birth-right. He thus became the founder of the new tribe or band, which has since been called the " Yosemite."
It is very probable that the statement of Major Savage, as to the origin of the name as aj) pi i cable to Ten-ie-ya's
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 65
band, was traditional with his informants, but I give credit, to Ten-ie-ya's own history of his tribe as most probable.
From my knowledge of Indian customs, I am aware that it is not uncommon for them to change the names of per- sons or localities after some remarkable event in the history of either. It would not, tlierefore, appear strange that Ten- ie-ya should have adopted another name for his band. I was unable to lix upon any definite date at which the Ah- wah-ne-chees became extinct as a tribe, but from tlie fact that some of the Yosemites claimed to be direct descend- ants, the time could not have been as long as would be in- ferred from their descriptions. When these facts were communicated to Captain Boling, and Ali-wah-ne was as- certained to be the classical name, the Captain said that name was all right enough for liistory or poetry, but that we could not now change the name Yosemite, nor was it desirable to do so. I made every etlbrt to ascertain the sig- nification of Ah-wali-ne, but could never fully satisfy my- self, as I received diiferent interpretations at different times. In endeavoring to ascertain from T^n-ie-ya his explanation of the name, he, b}^ the motion of his hands, indicated de])th, while trying to illustrate the name, at the same time ])lnck- ing grass which he held up before me. From .he e ''.s/ v/.v '" I inferred that it must mean the deep ii"i':i:~>y valley :v !!, it may not mean that. Sandino was unahle to gi\ c iKs tnie signification, saying by way of ex])lanation that A li-w li- ne was a name of the old tribe, that he d(l not kn<'\\ . o\v to translate. Major Savai^e also said that Ten-ie-ya a;id a few of the old Indians in his band used words which he did not full}^ understand, and which the others could neitiier use nor explain.
The dialect of the Yosemites was a composite of that of almost every tribe around them; and even words of Spanish derivation were discovered in their conversations. 5
6Q DISCOVERY OF THE Y OS E MITE,
It is not uncommon for tlie mountain men and traders, to acquire a mixed jargon of Indian dialects, which they mingle with Spanish, French or English in their talk to an extent sometimes amusing. The Indians readily adopt words from this lingo, and learn to Anglicize Indian names in conversation with " Americans." This, when done by the Mission Indians, who perhaps have already made efforts to improve the Indian name with Mission Spanish, tends to mislead the inquirer after "j^z^re" Indian names.
The Mission Indians after deserting, introduced and ap- plied Spanish names to objects that already had Indian designations, and in this way, new words are formed from corrupted Mission Spanish, that may lead to wrong inter- pretations. I learned from Knssio, the chief interpreter, that sometimes more than one word was used to express the same object, and often one word expressed different objects. As an illustration of corrupted Spanish that passes for In- dian, the words Oya (olla) and Hoya, may be taken. Oya signifies a water pot, and Hoya, a pit hole. From these words the Mission Indians have formed " Loj-a," which is used to designate camp grounds where holes in the rocks may be found near, in which to pulverize acorns, grass seeds, &c., as w^ell as to the " Sentinal Rock," from its fan- cied resemblance to a water pot, or long water basket. Another source of ditficulty, is that of representing by written characters the echoing gutteral sounds of some In- dian words. While being aware of this, I can safely assert that Yosemite, is purer and better Indian than is Missis- sippi, (" Me-ze-se-be," the river that runs every where; that is, *•' Endless rivei-) or many other names that are regarded as good if not pure Indian.^
* According to the Rev. S. G. Wright, of Leach Lake, Minnesota Res- ervation, and '^ Wain- ding''' (the source of the wind), the best interpreters of the Chippewa perhaps now living, but few, if any, of the Chippewa names for our lakes and rivers have been preserved in their purity.
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 67
Our interpreters were, or had been, Mission Indians, who rendered the dialects into as good Spanish as they had at command, but rather than fail in their office, for want of words, they would occasionally insert one of their own coining. This was done, regardless of the consequences, and when chided, declared it was for our benefit they had done so.
Attempts were made to supersede the name we had given the valley, by substituting some fancied improvements. At first, I supposed these to be simply changes rung on Yose- mite, but soon observed the earnestness of the sponsors in advocating the new names, in their magazine and news- paper articles. They claimed to have acquired tlie correct name from their Indian guides, employed on their visits to the Yosemite.
In 1855 Mr. J. M. Hutchings, of San Francisco, visited the Yosemite, and published a description of it, and also published a lithograph of the Yosemite Fall. Through his energetic efforts, the valley was more fully advertised. He ambitiously gave it the name of Yo-Hamite, and tenaciously adhered to it for some time ; though Yosemite had already crystalized.
The Rev. Doctor Scott, of San Francisco, in a newspaper article — disappointing to his admirers — descriptive of his travels and sojourn there, endeavored to dispossess both Mr. Hutchings and myself of our names, and named the valley Yo- Amite : probably as a jpeace offering to us both.
I did not at first consider it good policy to respond to these articles. I had no desire to engage in a newspaper controversy with such influences against me; but after so- licitations from Mr. Ayers, and other friends, I gave tlie facts upon which were based editorials in the " California Ciironicle," " Sacramento Union," the Mariposa and other papers.
68 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE,
Bj invitation of Mr. Hntchings, I had a personal inter- view with him in San Francisco, relative to this matter, and at his request furnished some of the incidents connected with our expedition against the Indians, as hereinbefore narrated. These he published in his magazine, and after- wards in his " Scenes of Wonder and Curiosity in Cali- fornia,"
This statement of facts was signed by myself, and certi- fied to by two members of the State legislature — James M. lioan and George H. Crenshaw — as follows: "We, the un- dersigned, having been members of the same company, and tlirough most of the scenes depicted by Doctor Bunnel', liave no hesitation in saying that the article above is cor- rect."
Mr. Hutchings says: *' We cheerfully give place to the above communication, that the public may learn how and by whom this remarkable valley was first visited and named; and, although we have ditr'ered with the writer and others concerning the name given, as explained in several articles that have appeared at different times in the several newspapers of the day, in which Yo-llamite was preferred; yet as Mr. Bunnell was among the first to visit the valley. we most willingly accord to him the right of giving it wh;.; si^ever name he pleases."
Mr. llutcliin,s then goes on to explain how he obtained tlie name Yo-llamite trum his Indian guide Kos-sum; that its correctness was affirmed by John Hunt, previous to tin publication of the lith()gra])h of the great falls, etc., and during this explanation, says: ''Up to this time we ha^. never heard or known any other name than Yosemite; " and farther on in a manly way says: " Had we before known that Doctor Ihnmell and his ])arty were the first whites who ever entered ihc valley (although we have the honor of being tliefimt in later years to visit it and call public at-
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. G9
tention to it), we should long ago have submitted to the name Doctor Bunnell had given it, as the discoverer of the valley."
After my interview with Mr. Hatchings — for I had never heard the word Yo-Hamite until it was published by him— r I asked John Hunt, the Indian trader referred to, whei-e he had got the word furnished to Mr. Hatchings. John, with some embarrassment, said, that " Yo-IIem-i-te was the way his Indians pronounced the name." I asked what name? " Why, Yosemite," said John. But, I replied, you know that the Indian name for the valley is Ah-wah-ne ! and the name given by us was the name of Ten-ie-ya's band 'i "Of course, (said John,) but my Indians now apply the word Yo-Hemite to the valley or the territory adjacent, thouonh their name for a bear is Osoomity." John Hunt's squaw was called, and asked by him the meaning of the woi'd, but confessed her ignorance. Mr. Cunniniiham was also consulted, but could give us no certain information ; but surmised that the word had been derived from *'Le- Hamite 'The Arrowwood.'" Another said poss bly from "Heui-nock/' the Kah-we-ah word for God. As to Yo- Amite, insisted on by Doctor Scott, I made no effort to find an interpretation of it.
70 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
CHAPTER Y.
Date of Discovery— First White Visitors— Captain Joe Walker's State- ment—Ten-ie-ya's Cunning— Indian Tradition— A lying Guide— The Ancient Squaw — Destroying Indian Stores — Sweat-houses — The Mourner's Toilet— Sentiment and Reality— Return to Head-quarters.
The date of our discovery and entrance into the Yosemite was about the 21st of March, 1851. We were afterward assured by Ten-ie-ya and others of his band, that this was the first visit ever made to this valley by white men. Ten- ie-ya said that a small party of white men once crossed the mountains on the North side, but were so guided as not to see it; Appleton's and the People's Encyclopedias to the contrary notwithstanding.^
It was to prevent the recurrence of such an event, that Ten-ie-ya had consented to go to the commissioner's camp and make peace, intending to return to his mountain home as soon as the excitement from tlie recent outbreak subsid- ed. The entrance to the Yalley had ever been carefully guarded by the old chief, and the people of his band. As a part of its traditionary history, it was stated: "That when Ten-ie-ya left the tribe of his mother and went to live in Ah-wah-ne, he was accompanied by a very old Ah-
* Captain Joe Walker, for whom " Walker's Pass " is named, told me that he once passed qu'te near the valley on one of his mountain trips; but that his Ute and Mono guides gave such a dismal account of the canons of both rivers, that he kept his course near to the divide until reaching Bull Creek, he descended and went into camp, not seeing the valley proper.
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 71
wah-ne-chee, who had been the great * medicine man' of his tribe."
It was through the influence of this old friend of his father that Ten-ie-ja was induced to leave the Mono tribe, and with a few of the descendants from the Ah-wah-nee- chees, who had been living with the Monos and Pai-Utes, to establish himself in the valley of his ancestors as their chief. He was joined by the descendants from the Ah-wah- ne-chees, and by others who had fled from their own tribes to avoid summary Indian justice. The old " medicine man" was the counselor of the young chief. ]^ot long before the death of this patriarch, as if endowed with prophetic wis- dom, he assured Ten-ie-ya that while he retained possession of Ah-wah-ne his band would increase in numbers and be- come powerful. That if he befriended those who sought his protection, no other tribe would come to the valley to make war upon him, or attempt to drive him from it, and if he obeyed his counsels he would put a spell upon it that would hold it sacred for him and his people alone; none other would ever dare to make it their home. He then cau- tioned the young chief against the horsemen of the lowlands (the Spanish residents), and declared that, should they enter Ah-wah-ne, his tribe would soon be scattered and destroyed, or his people be taken captive, and he himself be the last chief in Ah-wah-ne.
For this reason, Ten-ie-ya declared, had he so rigidly guarded his valley home, and all who sought his protection. No one ventured to enter it, except by his permission; all feared the " witches" there, and his displeasure. He had "made war upon the white gold diggers to drive them from the mountains, and prevent their entrance into Ah- wah-ne."
The Yo-sem-i-tes had been the most warlike of the mountain tribes in this part of California; and the Ah-
72 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
wah-ne-chee and Mono members of it, were of finer build and lighter color than those commonly called " California Digger Indians." Even the " Dii>'gers " of the band, from association and the better food and air afforded in the moun- tains, had become superior to their inheritance, and as a tribe, the Yosemites were feared by other Indians.
The superstitious fear of annihilation had, however, so depressed the warlike ardor of Ten-ie-ya, who had now be- come an old man, that he had decided to make efforts to conciliate the Americans, rather than further resist their occupancy of the mountains; as thereby, he hoped to save his valley from intrusion. In spite of Ten-ie-ya's cunning, the prophecies of the "old medicine" man have been mostly fulfilled. White horsemen have entered Ali-wah- ne; the tribe has been scattered and destroyed. Ten-ie-ya was the last chief of his people. He was killed by the chief of the Monos, not because of the prophecy; nor yet because of our entrance into his territory, but in retribu- tion for a crime against the Mono's hospitality. But I must not, Indian like, tell the latter part of my story first.
After an early breakfast on the morning following our entrance into the Yosemite, we equipped ourselves for duty; and as the word was passed to "fall in," we mounted and filed down the trail to the lower ford, ready to commence onr explorations.
The water in the Merced had fallen some during the night, but the stream was still in appearance a raging tor- rent. As we were about to cross, our guide with earnest gesticulations asserted that the water was too deep to cross, that if we attempted it, we would be swe])t down into the canon. That later, we could cross without difficulty. These assertions angered the Major, and he told the guide that he lied ; for he knew that later in the day the snow would melt.
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 73
Turning to Captain Boling he said: "I am now positive that the Indians are in the vicinity, and for that reason the guide would deceive us." Telling the young Indian to re- main near his person, he gave the order to cross at once.
The ford was found to be rocky; but we passed over it without serious difficulty, although several repeated their morning ablutions while stumbling over the boulders.
The open ground on the north side was found free from snow. The trail led toward ^' El Capitan," which had from the first, been the particular object of my admiration.
At this time no distinctive names were known by which to designate the clifi"s, waterfalls, or any of the especial ob- jects of interest, and the imaginations of some ran wild in search of appropriate ones. None had any but a limited idea of the height of this cliff, and but few appeared con- scious of the vastness of the granite wall before us; although an occasional ejaculation betrayed the feelings which the imperfect comprehension of the grand and wonderful exci- ted. A few of us remarked upon the great length of time required to pass it, and by so doing, probably arrived at more or less correct conclusions regarding its size.
Soon after we crossed the ford, smoke was seen to issue from a cluster of manzanita shrubs that commanded a view of the trail. On examination, the smoking brands indicated that it had been a picket fire, and we now felt assured that our presence was knowm and our movements watched by the vigilant Indians we were hoping to find. Moving rapidly on, we discovered near the base of El Capitan, quite a large collection of Indian huts, situated near Pigeon creek. On making a hasty examination of the village and vicinity, no Indians could be found, but from the generally undisturbed condition of things usually found in an Indian camp, it was evident that the occupants had but recently left; appear- ances indicated that some of the wigwams or huts had been
74
DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.
occupied during tlie night Kot far from the camp, upon posts, rocks, and in trees, was a large cache of acorns and other })rovisions.
As the trail showed that it had been used bj Indians go-
IH tCO. PHOTO,
HALF DOME.
(4,737 feet in height.)
ing up, but a short halt was made. As we moved on, a smoke was again seen in the distance, and some of the more eager ones dashed ahead of the column, but as we reached the ford to which we were led by the main trail leading to
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851.
76
the right, our dashing cavaliers rejoined us and again took their places. These men reported that " fallen rocks " had prevented their passage up on the nortli side, and that our only course was to cross at the ford and follow the trail, as the low lands appeared too wet for rapid riding. Recrossing the Merced to the south-side, we found trails leading both up and down the river. A detacliment was sent down to reconnoitre tlie open Imd below, while the main column pursued its course. The smoke we had seen was soon dis- covered to be rising from another encampment nearly
KORTH DOME AND ROYAL ARCHES.
(3,568 feet in height.)
south of the "Royal Arches;" and at the forks of the Ten-ie-ya branch of the Merced, near the south-west base of the " Half Dome," still another group of huts was brought to view.
These discoveries necessitated the recrossing of the river, which had now again become quite swollen; but by this time our horses and ourselves had become used to the icy waters, and when at times our animals lost their footing at the fords, they were not at all alarmed, but vigorously swam to the shore.
76 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
Abundant evidences were again found to indicate that the huts here had but just been deserted; that they had been occupied that morning. Although a rigid search was made, no Indians were found. Scouting parties in charge of Lieutenants Gilbert and Chandler, were sent out to ex- amine each branch of the valley, but this was soon found to be an impossib e task to accomplish in one day. While exploring among the rocks that had fallen from the " Eoyal Arches " at the southwesterly base of the E'orth Dome, my attention was attracted to a huge rock stilted upon some smaller ones. Cautiously glancing underneath, I was for a moment startled by a living object. Involuntarily my rifle was brought to bear on it, when I discovered the object to be a female; an extremely old squaw, but with a countenance that could only be likened to a vivified Egyp- tian mummy. This creature exhibited no expression of alarm, and was app irently indifferent to hope or fear, love or hate. I hailed one of my comrades on his way to camp, to report to Major Savage that I had discovered a peculiar living ethnological curiosity, and to bring something for it to eat. She was seated on the ground, hovering over the remnants of an almost exhausted fire. I replenished her supply of fuel, and waited for the Major. She neither spoke or exhibited any curiosity as to my presence.
Major Savage soon came, but could elicit nothing of im- portance from her. When asked where her companions were, she understood the dialect used, for she very curtly replied "You can hunt for them if you want to see them"! When asked why she was left alone, she replied " I am too old to climb the rocks"! The Major — forgetting the gal- lantry due her sex — inquired " How old are you?" With an ineffably scornful grunt, and a coquettish leer at the Major, she maintained an indignant silence. This attempt at a smile, left the Major in doubt as to her age. Subse-
AXD INDIAN WAR OF 1851.
77
quentlv, wlien Ten-ie-ya was in- terrogated as to the age of tliis old squaw, he re- plied that "T^o one knows her age. That when he was a boy, it w^as a favorite tradition of the old members of h i s band, that when she was a child, the peaks of the Sierras were but little lills.'^ This free interpretation was given by the Major, while seated around the caujp fire at night. If not reliahle^ it was excessively amusing to the "Boys," and ad- ded to the Ma- or's po])ularit3^ On a subsequent visit to the Yal- ley, an attempt was made to send the old freatiire to the commissioner's camp; she wa. i)laced on a mule and stai-ted. As
78 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
she could not bear the fatigue, she was left with another squaw. We learned that she soon after departed ^' to the happy land in the West."^^
The detachment sent down the trail reported the discovery of a small rancheria, a short distance above the "Cathedral Rocks," but the huts were unoccupied. They also reported the continuance of the trail down the left bank. The other detachments found huts in groups, but no Indians. At all of these localities the stores of food were abundant.
Their caches were principally of acorns, although many contained bay (California laurel), Fiiion pine (Digger pine), and chinquepin nuts, grass seeds, wild rye or oats (scorched), dried worms, scorched grasshoppers, and what proved to be the dried larvae of insects, which I was afterwards told were gathered from the waters of the lakes in and east of the Sierra Nevada. It was by this time quite clear that a large number of Ten-ie-ya's band was hidden in the cliffs or among the rocky gorges or canons, not accessible to us from the knowledge we then had of their trails and passes. We had not the time, nor had we supplied ourselves sufficiently to hunt them out. It was therefore decided that the best policy was to destroy their huts and stores, with a view of starving them out, and of thus compelling them to come in and join with Ten-ie-ya and the people with him on the res- ervation. At this conclusion the destruction of their prop- erty was ordered, and at once commenced. While this work was in progress, 1 indulged my curiosity in examining the lodges in which had been left their home property, domes- tic, useful and ornamental. As compared with eastern tribes, their supplies of furniture of all kinds, excepting baskets, were meagre enough.
These baskets were quite numerous, and were of various patterns and for different uses. The large ones were made either of bark, roots of the Tamarach or Cedar, Willow or
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 79
Tiile. Those made for gathering and transporting food supplies, were of large size and round form, with a sharp apex, into which, when inverted and placed upon the back, everything centres. This form of basket enables the car- riers to keep their balance while passing over seemingly impassable rocks, and along the verge of dangerous preci- pices. Other baskets found served as water buckets. Others again of various sizes were used as cups and soup bowls; and still another kind, made of a tough, wiry grass, closely woven and cemented, was used for kettles for boil- ing food. The boiling was effected by hot stones being continually plunged into the liquid mass, until the desired result was obtained.
The water baskets were also made of "wire-grass;" be- ing porous, evaporation is facilitated, and like the porous earthen water-jars of Mexico, and other hot countries, the water put into them is kept cool by evaporation. There were also found at some of the encampments, robes or blankets made from rabbit and squirrel skins, and from skins of water-fowl. There were also ornaments and musi- cal instruments of a rude character. The instruments were drums and flageolets. The ornaments were of bone, bears' claws, birds' bills and feathers. The thread used by these Indians, I found was spun or twisted from the inner bark of a species of the asclepias or milk-weed, by inge- niously suspending a stone to the iibre, and whirling it with great rapidity. Sinews are chiefly used for sewing skins, for covering their bows and feathering their arrows. Theii fish spears were but a single tine of bone, with a cord so attached near the centre, that when the spear, loosely placed in a socket in the pole, was pulled out by the struggles of the fish, the tine and cord would hold it as securely as though held by a barbed hook.
There were many things found that only an Indian could
80 DISCO rERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
possibly use, and which it would be useless for me to at- tempt to describe; such, for instance, as stag-horn ham- mers, deer prong punches (for making arrow-heads), ob- sidian, pumice-stone and salt brought from the eastern slope of the Sierras and from the desert lakes. In the hurry of their departure they had left everything. The numerous bones of animals scattered about the camps, in- dicated their love of horse-flesh as a diet.
Among these relics could be distinguished the bones of horses and mules, as well as other animals, eaten by these savages. Deers and bears were frequently driven into the valley during their seasons of migration, and were killed by expert hunters perched upon rocks and in trees that commanded their runways or trails ; but their chief de- pendence for meat was upon horseflesh.
Among the relics of stolen property were many things recognized by our *^boys," while applying the torch and giving all to the flames. A comrade discovered a bridle and part of a riata or rope which was stolen from him with a mule while waiting for the commissioners to inquire into the cause of the war with the Indians! No animals of any kind were kept by the Yosemites for any length of time except dogs, and they are quite often sacrificed to gratify their pride and appetite, in a dog feast. Their highest estimate of animals is only as an article of food. Those stolen from the settlers were not kept for their use- fulness, except as additional camp supplies. The acorns found were alone estimated at from four to six hundred bushels.
During our explorations we were on every side astonished at the colossal representations of cliffs, rocky canons and water-falls which constantly challenged our attention and ad- miration.
Occasionally some fragment of a garment was found, or
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851, 81
other sign of Indians, but no trail could be discovered by ov/r eyes. Tired and almost exhausted in the fruitless search for Indians, the footmen returned to tlie place at which they had left their horses in the canons, and in very thankfulness caressed them with delight.
In subsequent visits, this region was thoroughly explored and names given to prominent objects and localities.
While searching for hidden stores, I took the opportu- nity to examine some of the numerous sweat-houses noticed on tlie bank of the Merced, below a large camp near the mouth of the Ten-ie-ya branch. It may not be out of place to here give a few words in description of these conve- niences of a permanent Indian encampment, and the uses for which they are considered a necessity.
The remains of these structures are sometimes mis'aken for Tumuli. They were constructed of poles, bark, grass and mud. The frame- work of poles is first covered with bark, reeds or grass, and then the mud — as tenacious as the soil will admit of — is spread thickly over it. The structure is in the form of a dome, resembling a huge round mound. After being dried by a slight fire, kindled inside, the mud is covered with earth of a sufficient depth to shed the rain from without, and prevent the escape of heat from within. A small opening for ingress and egress is left; this comprises the extent of the house when complete, and ready for use. These sweat-baths are used as a luxury, as a curative for disease, and as a convenience for cleansing the skin, when necessity demands it, although the Indian race is not noted for cleanliness.
As a luxury, no Russian or Turkish bath is more enjoyed by civilized people, than are these baths by the Mountain In- dians. I have seen a half dozen or more enter one of these rudely constructed sweat-houses, through the small aper- ture left for the purpose. Hot stones are taken in, the 6
DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
aperture is closed until suffocation would seem impending, when they would crawl out reeking with perspiration, and with a shout, spring like acrobats into the cold waters of the stream. As a remedial agent for disease, the same course is pursued, though varied at times by the burning and inhalation of resinous boughs and herbs.
In the process for cleansing the skin from impurities, hot air alone is generally used. If an Indian had passed the usual period for mourning for a relative, and the adhesive pitch too tenaciously clung to his no longer sorrowful coun- tenance, he would enter, and re-enter the heated house, un- til the cleansing had become complete.
The mourning pitch is composed of the charred bones and ashes of their dead relative or friend. These remains of the funeral pyre, with the charcoal, are pulverized and mixed with the resin of the pine. This hideous mixture is usually retained upon the face of the mourner until it wears off. If it has been well compounded, it may last nearly a year; although the young — either from a super- abundance of vitality, excessive reparative powers of the skin, or from powers of will — seldom mourn so long. When the bare surface exceeds that covered by the pitch, it is not a scandalous disrespect in the young to remove it entirely; but a mother will seldom remove pitch or garment until both are nearly worn out.
In their camps were found articles from the miners' camps, and from the unguarded " ranchman." There was no lack of evidence that the Indians who bad deserted their villages or wigwams, were truly entitled to the soubriquet of " the Grizzlies," " the lawless."
Although we repeatedly discovered fresh trails leading from the different camps, all traces were soon lost among the rocks at the base of the cliffs. The debris or talus not only afforded places for temporary concealment, but provi-
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 83
ded facilities for escape without betraying the direction. If by chance a trail was followed for a while, it would at last be traced to some apparently inaccessible ledge, or to the foot of some slippery depression in the walls, up which we did not venture to climb. While scouting up theTen-ie-ya canon, above Mirror Lake, I struck the fresh trail of quite a large number of Indians. Leaving our horses, a few of us followed up the tracks until they were lost in the ascent up the cliff. By careful search they were again found and followed until finally they hopelessly disappeared. . Tiring of our unsuccessful search, the hunt was abandoned, although we were convinced that the Indians had in some way passed up the cliff.
During this time, and while descending to the valley, I partly realized the great height of the cliffs and high fall. I had observed the height we were compelled to climb before the Talus had been overcome, though from below this ap- peared insignificant, and after reaching the summit of our ascent, the cliffs still towered above us. It was by insti- tuting these comparisons while ascending and descending, that I was able to form a better judgment of altitude; for while entering the valley, — although, as before stated, I had observed the towering height of El Capitan, — my mind had been so preoccupied with the marvelous, that comparison had scarcely performed its proper function.
The level of the valley proper now appeared quite dis- tant as we looked down upon it, and objects much less than full size. As night was fast approaching, and a storm threatened, we returned down the trail and took our course for the rendezvous selected by Major Savage, in a grove of oaks near the mouth of " Indian Canon."
While on our way down, looking across to and up the south or Glacier Canon, I noticed its beautiful fall, and planned an excursion for the morrow. I almost forgot my
84
DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
fatigue, in admiration of the solemn grandeur within my view; the lofty walls, the towering domes and numerous water-falls; their misty spray blending with the clouds set- tling down from the higher mountains.
The duties of the day had been severe on men and horses, for beside fording the Merced several times, the numerous
branches pouring over cliffs and down ravin es from the melting snow, rendered the overflow o f the bottom lands so constant that we were often compelled to sp ash through the water-courses that later would be dry. These torrents of cold water, command- ed more especial attention, and ex- cited more com- ment than did the grandeur of the cliffs and water-
GLACIER PALL. (550 feet in height.)
falls. We were not a party of tourists, seeking recre- ation, nor philosophers investigating the operations of nature. Our business there was to And Indians who were endeavoring to escape from our charitable intentions toward them. But very few of the volunteers seemed to have any appreciation of the wonderful proportions of the enclosing
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 85
granite rocks; tlieir curiosity had been to see the stronghold of the enemy, and the general verdict was that it was gloomy enough.
Tired and wet, the independent scouts sought the camp and reported their failures. Gilbert and Chandler came in with their detachments just at dark, from their tiresome ex- plorations of the southern branches. Only a small squad of their commands climbed above the Yernal and Nevada falls; and seeing the clouds resting upon the mountains above the Nevada Fall, they retraced their steps through the showering mist of the Yernal, and joined their comrades, who had already started down its rocky gorge. These men found no Indians, but they were the first discoverers of the Yernal and Nevada Falls, and the Little Yosemite. They reported what they had seen to their assembled comrades at the evening camp-fires. Their names have now passed from my memory — not having had an intimate personal acquaint- ance with them — for according to my recollection they be- longed to the company of Capt. Dill.
While on our way down to camp we met Major Savage with a detachment who had been burning a large cacJie lo- cated in the fork, and another small one below the mouth of the Ten-ie-ya branch. This had been held in reserve for possible use, but the Major had now fired it, and the flames were leaping high. Observing his movements for a few moments we rode up and made report of our unsuccessful efibrts. I briefly, but with some enthusiasm^ described my view from the cliff up the North Canon, the Mirror Lake view of the Half Dome, the Fall of the South Canon and the view of the distant South Dome. I volunteered a sug- gestion that some new tactics would have to be devised be fore we should be able to corral the " Grizzlies " or " smoke them out." The Major looked up from the charred mass of burning acorns, and as he glanced down the smoky val-
86
DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
ley, said: "This affords us the best prospect of any yet dis. covered; just look!" "Splendid!" I promptly replied, To-sem-i-te must be beautifully grand a few weeks laten when the foliage and flowers are at their prime, and the rush of water has somewhat subsided. Such cliffs and wa- ter-'alls I never saw before, and I doubt if they exist in any other place."
I was surprised and somewhat ir- ri tated by the hearty laugh with which my reply was greeted. The Major caught the expression of my eye and shrugged his shoulders as he hastily said: "I suppose that is all right, Doctor, about the water- falls, &c., for there ! are enough of them here for one || 1 o c a 1 i t y , a s w e -i have all discover- ed; but my re- mark was not in reference to the scenery, but tlie prospect of the Indians being starved out, and of their coming in to sue for peace. We have all been more or less wet since we rolled up our blankets tliis morning, and this fire is very enjoyable, but
VERNAL FAT,L. (350 feet in height.)
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851,
87
the prospect that it offers to mj mind of smoking out the Indians, is more agreeable to me than its warmth or all the scenery in creation. I know, Doc, that there is a good deal of iron in you, but there is also considerable sentiment, and I am not in a very sentimental mood." I replied that I did not think that any of us felt very much like making love or writing poetry, but that Ten-ie- ya's remark to him about the "Great Spirit" providing so bountifuUy for his people, had several times oc- curred to me since entering here, and that no doubt to
Ten-ie-ya, this ^'°° ^''' •" ''''-''''^
was a veritable Indian paradise. "Well," said the Major, " as far as that is con- cerned, although I have not carried a Eihle with me since I became a nioiint- ain-man, I remember well enough that Satan entered paradise and did all the mischief lie could, but I intend to be a bigger devil in this Indian i^!ara:;Ise
88 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
than old Satan ever was; and when I leave, I don't intend to crawl out, either. Now Doc. we will go to camp but let me saj while upon the subject, that we are in no con- dition to judge fairly of this valley. The annoyances and disappointments of a fruitless search, together with the cer- tainty of a snow-storm approaching, makes all this beau- tiful scenery appear to me gloomy enough. In a word, it is what we supposed it to be before seeing it, a h — of a place. The valley, no doubt, will always be a wonder for its grouping of cliffs and water-falls, but hemmed in by walls of rock, your vision turned in, as it were, upon your- self— a residence here would be anything but desirable for me. Any one of the Eocky Mountain parks would be pref- erable, while the ease with which buffalo, black-tail and big- horn could be provided in the " Eockies" would, in compar- ison, make your Indian paradise anything but desirable, even for these Indians.''
The more practical tone and views of the Major damp- ened the ardor of my fancy in investing the valley with all desirable qualities, but as we compared with each other the experiences of the day, it was very clear that the half had not yet been seen or told, and that repeated views would be required before any one person could say that he had seen the Yosemite. It will probably be as well for me to say here that though Major Savage commanded the first expedition to the valley, he never revisited it, and died without ever having seen the Yernal and Nevada Falls, or any of the views belonging to the region of the Yosemite, except those seen from the valley and from the old Indian trail on our first entrance.
We found our camp had been plentifully supplied with dry wood by the provident guard, urged, no doubt, by the threatening appearances of another snow-storm. Some rude slielters of poles and brush were thrown up around the
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 89
fires, on which were placed the drying blankets, the whole serving as an improvement on our bivouac accomodations. The night was colder than the previous one, for the wind was coming down the canons of the snowy Sierras. The fires were lavislily piled with the dry oak wood, which sent out a glowing warmth. The fatigue and exposure of the day were forgotten in the hihirity with wliich supper was de- voured by the hungry sc »ut> while steaming in their wet garments. After su!)pe:- Major Savage announced that *'from the very exteii i ve draft on the commissary stores just made, it wa.-* neces iry to r 'turn to the 'South Fork.' " He said that it would l)c a'lvirtai»le f >r us to return, as we were not in a con<li ion to endure delay if the threatened storm should prove to be a sev re one; and ordered both Captains Boling and Dill to have their companies ready for the march at davlio^lit the next morning.
While enjoying the warmth of the fire preparatory to a night's rest, the incidents of our observations during the day were interchanged. The probable heights of the cliffs was discussed. One official estimated "El Capitan" at 400 feet!! Capt. Boling at 800 feet; Major Savage was in no mood to venture an opinion. My estimate was a sheer perpendicularity of at least 1500 feet. Mr. C. H. Spencer, son of Prof. Thomas Spencer, of Geneva, N. Y., — who had traveled quite extensively in Europe, — and a French gentleman. Monsieur Bouglinval, a civil engineer, who had joined us for the sake of adventure, gave me their opinions that my estimate was none too high; that it was probable tliat I was far below a correct measurement, for when there was so much sameness of height the judgment could not very well be assisted by comparison, and hence instrumental measurements alone could be relied on. Time has demonstrated the correctness of their opinions. These gentlemen were men of education and practical experience
90 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
in observing the heights of objects of which measurement had been made, and qnietlj reminded their auditors that it was difficult to measure such massive objects with the eye alone. That some author had said : " But few persons have a correct judgment of height that rises above sixty feet."
I became somewhat earnest and enthusiastic on the sub- ject of the valle}^, and expressed myself in such a positive manner that the '' enfant terrible*^ of the company deri- sively asked if I was given to exaggeration before I became an " Indian fighter." From my ardor in description, and admiration of the scenery, I found myself nicknamed "Yo- semity" by some of the battalion. It was customary among the mountain men and miners to prefix distinctive names. From this hint I became less f.xjyressive^ when conversing on matters relating to the valley. My self-respect caused me to talk less among my comrades generally, but with in- timate friends the subject was always an open one, and my estimates of heights were never reduced.
Major Savage took no part in this camp discussion, but on our expressing a design to revisit the valley at some fu- ture time, he assured us that there was a probability of our being fully gratified, for if the renegades did not voluntarily come in, another visit would soon have to be made by the battalion, when we could have opportunity to measure the rocks if we then desired. That we should first escort our "captives" to the commissioners' camp on the Fresno; that by the time we returned to the valley the trails would be clear of snow, and we would be able to explore to our sat- isfaction. Casting a quizzing glance at me, he said: " The rocks will probably keep, but you will not find all of these immense water-powers.^^
IS^otwithstanding a little warmth of discussion, we cheer- fully wrapped ourselves in our blankets and slept, until awakened by the guard; for there had been no disturbance
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1S51. 91
during the night. The snow had fallen only to about the depth of an inch in the valley, but the storm still contin- ued.
By early dawn " all ready" was announced, and we start- ed back without having seen any of the Indian race except our useless guide and the old squaw. Major Savage rode at the head of the column, retracing our trail, rather than attempt to follow down the south side. The water was rel- atively low in the early morning, and the fords were passed without difficulty. While passing El Capitan I felt like sa- luting, as I would some dignified acquaintance.
The caehc.'i below were vet smoulderino', but the lodo^es had disappeared.
At our entrance we had closely followed the Indian trail over rocks tliat could not be re-ascended with animals. To return, we were compelled to remove a few obstructions of poles, brush and loose rocks, placed by the Indians to pre- vent the escape of the animals stolen and driven down. Entire herds had been sometimes taken from the ranches or their ranges.
After leaving the valley, but little difficulty was encoun- tered. The snow had drifted into the hollows, but had nut to any extent obscured the trail, which we now found quite hard. TTe reached the camp earlier in the day than we had reason to ex})ect. During these three days of absence from headquarters, we had discovered, named and partially ex- plored one of the most remarkable of the geographical won- ders of the world.
92 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
OHAPTEE Yl.
Out of Provisions— A hurried Move— Mills where Indians take Their Grists, and Pots in which they Boil their Food— Advance Movement of Captain Dill— A Hungry Squad— Enjoyment— Neglect of Duty- Escape of Indians— Following their Trail — A Sorrowi'al Captain— A Mystery made Clear — Duplicity of the Chow-chillas — Vow-chester's Good- will Offering— Return of the Fugitives— Major Savage as Agent and Interpreter.
On our arrival at the rendezvous on the South Fork the officer in charge reported: "We are about out of grub." This was a satisfactory cause for a hurried movement; for a short allowance had more terrors for men with our appe- tites than severe duties; and most of us had already learned that, even with prejudice laid aside, our stomachs would refuse the hospitalities of the Indians, if it were possible for them to share with us from their own scanty stores. The Major's experience prompted him at once to give the order to break camp and move on lor the camp on the Fresno.
Our mounted force chafed at the slowness of our march; for the Indians could not be hurried. Although their cook- ery was of the most primitive character, we were very much delayed by the time consumed in preparing their food.
While traveling we were compelled to accommodate our movements to the capacities or inclinations of the women and children. Captain Dill, therefore, with his company was sent on ahead from the crossing of the South Fork, they leaving with us what food they could spare. When
AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 93
Dill reached the waters of the Fresno about one hundred ''' captives ^^ joined him. These Indians voluntarily sur- rendered to Captain Dill's company, which at once hurried them on, and they reached the commissioners at the Fresno.
Captain Boling's company and Major Savage remained with the " Grand Caravan," keeping out scouts and hun- ters to secure such game as might be found to supply our- selves with food. We had no anxiety for the safety or se- curity of our "captives;" our OAvn subsistence was the im- portant consideration ; for the first night out from Bish- op's camp left us but scanty stores for breakfast. Our halt- ing places were selected from the old Indian camj^ing grounds, which were supplied with hoyas (holes or mor- tars). These peimanent mortars were in the bed-rock, or in large detached rocks that had fallen from the cliffs or mountains. These " hoyas " had been formed and used by past generations. They were frequent on our route, many of them had long been abandoned; as there was no indications of recent uses having been made of tliem. From their numbers it was believed that the Indians had once been much more numerous than at that date.
By means of the stone pestles with which they were pro- vided, the squaws used these primitive mills to reduce their acorns and grass seeds to flour or meal. While the grists weie being ground, others built the fires on which stones were heated.
When red hot, these stones were plunged into baskets nearly filled with water; this is continued until the water boils. The stones are then removed and the acorn meal, or a cold mixture of it, is stirred in until thin gruel is made; the hot stones are again plunged into the liquid mass and and again removed. When suflSciently cooked, this "Atola" or porridge, was poured into plates or moulds of sand, pre- pared for that purpose. During the process of cooling, the
94: DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
excess of water leaches off through the sand, leaving the woody fibre tannin and unappropriated coarse meal in dis- tinctive strata; the edible portion being so defined as to be easily separated from the refuse and sand. This prepara- tion was highly prized by them, and contrary to preconceiv- ed ideas and information, all of the Indians I asked assured me that the hitter acorns were the best when cooked. This compound of acorn meal resembles corn starch blanc mange in color, but is more dense in consistency. Although it was free from grit, and comparatively clean, none of us were able to eat it, and we were quite hungry. From this, I was led to conclude that to relish this Indian staple, the taste must be acquired while very young.
Old Ten-ie-ya's four wives, and other squaws, were dis- posed to be quite hospitable when they learned that our supply of provisions was exhausted. None of the com- mand, however, ventured to sample their acorn -jellies, grass- seed mush, roasted grasshoppers, and their other delicacies; nothing was accepted but the Pinon pine nuts, which were generally devoured with a relish and a regret for the scar- city.
Certain species of worms, the larvse of ants and some other insects, common mushrooms and truffles, or wood- mushrooms, are prized by the Indian epicure, as are eels shrimps, oysters, frogs, turtles, snails, etc., by his white civilized brother. Are we really but creatures of educa- tion ?
The hasl'ets used by the Indians for boiling their food and other purposes, as has been before stated, are made of a tough mountain bunch-grass, nearly as hard and as strong as wire, and almost as durable. So closely woven are they, that but little if any water can escape from them. They are made wholly impervious with a resinous compound resembling the vulcanized rubber used by dentists. This
AND INDIAN WAR OF I80I. 95
composition does not appear to be in the least affected by hot water. The same substance, in appearance at least, is used by Mountain Indians in attaching sinews to bows, and feathers and barbs to arrows.
I endeavored to ascertain what the composition was, bnt could only learn that the resin was procured from small trees or shrubs, and that some substance (probably min- eral) was mixed with it, the latter to resist the action of heat and moisture. I made a shrewd guess that pulverized lava and sulphur (abundant east of the High Sierras) was used, but for some cause I was left in ignorance. The In- dians, like all ignorant persons, ascribe i-emarkable virtues to very simple acts and to inert remedies. Upon one occa- sion a doctor was extolling the virtues of a certain root, ascribing to it almost miraculous powers; I tried in vain to induce him to tell me the name of the root. He stated that the secret was an heir-loom, and if told, the curative power of the plant would disappear; but he kindly gave me some as a preventive of some imaginarj^ ill, when lo ! I discovered the famous remedy to be the cowslip.
After a delayed and hungry march of several days, we halted near sundown within a few miles of the Commis- sioner's headquarters, and went into camp for the night. The Indians came straggling in at will from their hunts on the way, their trophies of skill with their bows being the big California squirrels, rabbits or hares and quail. Our more expert white hunters had occasionally brought in ven. ison for our use. We had ceased to keep a very effective guard over our " captives; " none seemed necessary, as all appeared contented and satisfied, almost joyous, as we neared their destination on the Fresno.
The truth is, we regarded hostilities, so far as these In- dians were concerned, as ended. We had voted the peace policy a veritable success. We had discussed the matter in
96 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,
camp, and contrasted the lack of spirit exhibited by these people with what we knew of the warlike character of the Indians of Texas and of the Northwestern plains. In these comparisons, respect for our captives was lost in contempt. " The noble red man " was not here represented. The only ones of the Pacific Slope, excepting the Navahoes, Pimas and Maricopahs, that bear any comparison with the Eastern tribes for intelligence and bravery, are the You-mahs of the Colorado river, the Modocs, and some of the Kogue and Columbia river tribes, but none of these really equal the Sioux and some other Eastern tribes.
Hardly any attention had been paid to the captives dur- ing the preceding night, except from the guard about our own camp; from a supposition that our services could well be spared. Application was therefore made by a few of us, for